Ivydene Gardens Colour Wheel - Flowers Gallery: Introduction

 

Site Map for Flower Petal Colour being nearest to Colour in this Colour Wheel Page

Introduction *

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Primary Colours:-

Red.
Yellow.
Blue.

 

 

Secondary Colours:-

Orange.
Green.
Violet.

 

 

Tertiary Colours:-

Red Orange.
Yellow Orange.
Yellow Green.
Blue Green.
Blue Violet.
Red Violet.

 

 

 

 

 

Click on Name in Botanical Plant Name to move to its Plant Description Page instead of clicking the Thumbnail. Click on a Month in Flowering Months to compare flower colour with others in its own Plant Type - i.e. other Bulbs, Climbers or Roses.

Since the majority of the Wildflowers detailed in this website are available in either seed or plug-plant form, why do you not mix them with the cultivated plants in your garden?

There are 1971 ( 1343 cultivated plants with 628 wildflower plants ) plant forms split into:-

  • 165 WILDFLOWER - ANNUALS / BIENNIALS (including Aquatic plants, which grow in water or wet soil)
  • 8 WILDFLOWER - CLIMBERS
  • 5 WILDFLOWER - GRASSES / RUSHES / SEDGES
  • 60 WILDFLOWER - UNDER-SHRUB / SHRUBS / TREES
  • 365 WILDFLOWER - PERENNIALS (including Aquatic Perennials)
  • 17 WILDFLOWER - PARASITES
  • 8 WILDFLOWER - RHIZOMES / BULBS
  • 97 ALLIUM AND ANEMONE BULBS.
  • 5 BULBS - Spring Catalogue. For planting in February/ May
  • 89 BULBS - Late Summer Catalogue. For planting in July/ September
  • 42 BULBS - Autumn Catalogue. For planting in September/ November
  • 3 BULBS - Winter Catalogue. For planting in November/ March
  • 105 CLIMBERS
  • 115 COLCHICUM AND CROCUS BULBS.
  • 46 DAHLIA TUBERS
  • 29 DECIDUOUS SHRUBS
  • 90 EVERGREEN PERENNIALS
  • 45 EVERGREEN SHRUBS
  • 127 GLADIOLI CORMS
  • 91 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS
  • 62 LILIUM BULBS
  • 54 NARCISSUS BULBS
  • 343 ROSES

in this Gallery.

I have split the above Colour Wheel into the following 48 colours plus the 4 Neutral colours (I have added the web-safe colour name to the Colour Wheel Name as detailed in colourcodes):-

All the plants who have flowers in this website will have their Common Name, Botanical Name (click to see its Page Description) and Months of Flowering (Click to see it compared with others in another page) in one of the above flower petal colour index pages. The Common Name will be in Red if it is a Wildflower, The Botanical Name will link to its Plant Description Page and each Flower Month will link to the respective Flower Colour Comparison Page in the relevant Gallery.

The overall effect of the petals of the flowers has been used to classify them from the photos used in the website. Thus, although some white flower petals have other colours with them, the general effect may be white and therefore they are put in the Neutral: Pure White 2 Page under Multi-Coloured.

If the Flower Petal of the photo in the Cultivated Plant Description Page is Multi-Coloured, then it will be placed in the Multi-Coloured Row of a Colour Wheel of Flower Petal Colour Index Page that appears to have the majority space of that colour on that petal.

If the Wildflower does not have its Plant Decription Page yet, then the Botanical Name and Flower Month will link to its Family Page.

Dark Tone or Shades (Colours mixed with Black)

Mid-Tone (Colours mixed with Grey)

Pure Hue (the Primary, Secondary or Tertiary Colour named)

Pastel (Colours mixed with White)

Ivydene Horticultural Services logo with I design, construct and maintain private gardens. I also advise and teach you in your own garden. 01634 389677

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If you know the name of the plant you wish to see, you can ask Google and get information; otherwise for the public this website may help you choose your plants using foliage, shape and seed/fruit as well as flower photos before you buy them mailorder directly from the nursery / seed company that has donated the use of their photos!

With free advertising of their plants, I am asking for photos from the public / nurseries / seed companies / suppliers in the UK, or any other country in the European Union, who would supply plants / seeds mailorder direct to the public in the UK and/or the rest of the world. This also applies to American nurseries for America, Chinese Nurseries for China, etc since the plants from most other countries in the world can also be grown in the UK as well as their own country; providing the appropriate growing conditions are stated.

 

 

Site design and content copyright ©August 2009 Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

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Crocus pulchellus 'Inspiration'
Nursery of plants for coastal, or exposed, chalky conditions.

It is interesting to note that having asked nurseries/wholesalers to supply photos of their 565,000 plants that they sell mail-order in the UK since April 2007, so few have donated the copyright use of their photos/data for me to use on this educational hobby website only (See Copyright Permissions Page).

Perhaps the UK public could supply photos of their named plants on CD or DVD and how they grow/maintain them, so that others could benefit from this free service to improve the choice of plants/seeds that they can buy direct from a nursery/wholesaler?

Plant Care

This is a photo of a Ryegrass plant, that was growing in Type I MOT Roadstone on flat ground in a private garden. You will note that it has a great deal of fibrous root - apparently in American Baseball Stadiums each grass plant has over 100 miles of root.

grassroot

That root in cooperation with worms, bacteria etc takes in food, which is brought down from the surface by water (usually rain, but can be by irrigation) either in tunnels created by the worms, moles, etc or when the ground cracks open in the summer when the clay soil dries up and shrinks - clay soil can absorb 40% of its own volume before it turns from a solid to a liquid. That root also breathes in oxygen then expels carbon dioxide (See Carbon Cycle) and nitrogen (See Nitrogen Cycle) ALL THE TIME.

If you buy Sharp-Washed-Sand from a Builder's Merchant and put that into a clean pot round a plant, then using NPK fertilisers the roots of that plant can absorb that food dissolved in water. Once you stop supplying that water and food, that plant will die (it is like saying that for you to survive, that you need a lb of glucose each day, so I sit you down outside and put 365 lbs of glucose round your feet. It rains and within 6 weeks that glucose has either been eaten by you or dissolved in the rain and washed down into the ground below your feet. Then you complain to me that you are hungry).

To make that Sharp-Washed-Sand into soil, you need dead plant material, shit from animals or dead animals, bacteria, worms that can be eaten by the animal, bacteria and worms to bind those sand particles together with clay and organic matter (See Soil Structure). That soil can then hold onto the some of the rain (See How does Water act in the Soil) with food for the animal/plant in it, before the excess rain drains through below the top soil to the sub-soil and the food in it is then lost to the plants above it. The easiest method of supplying the dead plant material is to collect your potato peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds in a bucket under the sink before putting them on the ground surface round a plant. Then, mow the lawn and put 1cm or 0.5 inch depth of grass mowings on top to complete the organic mulch, provide water from the grass and nitrogen from it to compost the peelings below. The worms having made tunnels in the soil may also eat the peelings. When it rains the water can absorb nutrients from that mulch and take it down using those tunnels. WHEN THOSE TUNNELS ARE FULL OF WATER AND A CLOD-HOPPING HUMAN WALKS ON IT, THEN IT COLLAPSES AND NO LONGER FUNCTIONS. If it rains heavily, allow the ground to recover for a couple of days before walking on it.

You can then see that a Sandy Soil is much easier for the roots of a plant to get into, but when it rains it dries up quickly and then the food in it gets washed through it very quickly (See How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil?). It is also easier for the gases to get in and out.

A clay soil is more difficult for plants, since when it rains the tunnels fill up with water and thus could drown the roots. Put sand round its roots up to the surface of the soil and this will combine with the clay to stop the roots from being drowned or without Nitrogen and Carbon gas exchange. If your lawn is soggy when it rains, then cut the lawn short when it is dry and apply 25Kg of sand over a 5 metre x 5 metre area once a month for 3 months during May-September and it will change the soil structure to lessen that.

A mixture of Clay and Soil is best (See Soil Formation - What is Soil Texture?).

 

I saw a yew tree that had been planted in a churchyard in 2000 as a 2 foot high tree. In 2009 it had reached 7 feet high and 3 feet across. Why had it not grown?

It was planted on a 30 degree slope in clay/sand soil with grass growing round its base. It had the following 3 reasons for failure to grow:-

  • When it rained, the water would either be taken up by the roots of the grass (see the roots of just 1 plant in the photo above) or run off down the slope.
  • The grass would take all the nutrients out the top soil leaving none to be washed down to the roots of the yew tree.
  • The grass would be using all the oxygen that came down the tunnels, leaving none for the yew tree

So, I carefully removed the grass and its roots from around its base out to the tips of the tree branches and mulched that bare ground with shrub prunings / grass mowings to a 4 inch depth. A year later it was growing quite well with new leaves and increase of density of branches.

In Maderia I saw a mature olive tree - which had been transplanted from the nursery to a roof garden - a year after it was planted. It was on a mound with brazilian grass growing round its base. It was dying from dehydration even though it was irrigated every other day - the grass was growing well.

An organic mulch about 4 inches deep on weeded soil makes garden maintenance very easy. Once a week you walk round the garden and using a swoe (a hoe has 2 arms to the horizontal blade, a swoe only has 1 so that you can stand on the lawn and be able to hoe behind the plant in front of you) hoe through the weed root in the top of the mulch and remove the uprooted weed. I find that Spent Mushroom Compost is light, easy to lay, easy to hoe and lasts a relatively long time. You may lose about 50% each year. If you do not apply any mulch and you do have groundcover plants covering all the soil, then you will enjoy permanent weeding chores like the painters on the Forth Bridge last century - you come to the other side and have to start again immediately. When you prune your shrubs/trees/hedges then put the prunings on your uncut lawn. When you deadhead your bulbs or remove perennials, shake off the earth from the roots and place on the uncut lawn. Using a rotary mower cut your lawn and it will cut the grass and your prunings/perennials into small bits which you then mulch your flower beds/hedges with. In the autumn, set your mower to its highest cut and transfer the autumn fallen leaves onto the lawn before mowing them and mulching as before. Continue mowing once a week untill all fallen leaves have been removed.

If your garden is on a steep slope - I maintained one that had half-circle beds with lawn paths round them - the diameter of the circle was usually level and the half-circumference went down the slope. The ground had flint and chalk in it and the plants in it were usually the inverted cone shape. When it rained, the stones would be washed off onto the lawn paths and damage my mowing machine. Providing any mulch applied to those beds is covered with grass mowings, then that problem - of the stones being washed off by any rain however hard onto the paths - is stopped.

Roots of plants that you put into your garden do extend and grow, but the existing roots do not move by themselves to better places. You have to untangle them and spread them out yourself. I planted a blue cedar in my front garden and 9 years later it died. When I took it out, I found that the roots which had been going round the inside of the pot before I planted it had expanded sideways to fill the complete space between them as if they were still in the pot. There were very few roots which had grown away from this rootball and so the plant died due to dehydration, lack of food and lack of gas exchange in the ground.

A minor point that people forget is that you only live because you can breath oxygen, and plants provide it. So please look after the plant so that they have food, water and air (best soil has at least 30% air in it) on a regular basis, just like you do for your children.

 

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