Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
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Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
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Comments |
Adjacent Planting |
Plant Associations It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
Molucella laevis 'Pixie Bells' (Bells of Ireland) |
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"Give one slightly trickier plant a go, Moluccella laevis (bells of Ireland), which will still be looking good in the garden as you pick your berries and twigs for a wreath at Christmas. This can be stubborn to germinate, but should come up after the shock of a week in the freezer. Freeze a packet of seed in the next week, sow into a seed tray, then prick out into their own pots for planting in the garden in the middle of May." from how to create summer colour with annual flowers by Sarah Raven in The Telegraph 26 April 2010. Fragrant pale green flowers and pale green leaves. Easy annual, good cut and good dried. Sun. 30″ |
Before green flowers became a hot trend, there were bells of Ireland, a flower in cultivation since the 1500’s. These flowers are native to Turkey, not Ireland, but their fresh green color and symbolism of luck derived from the bell shape give them their Irish nickname. Florists love bells of Ireland for their availability and longevity, and you’ll see them used in wedding flower arrangements as often as in St. Patrick’s day bouquets. Bells of Ireland grow in all zones, but fare poorly in areas with hot and humid summers. Many gardeners don’t realize that they’re growing bells of Ireland for their green calyxes, not the tiny white flowers within. These outer green sepals form the showy green “bells” that surround the tiny fragrant flowers within. Plant bells of Ireland in the garden after the last frost date in your area in average garden soil. Leave seeds uncovered, as they require light to germinate. The seeds are slow to germinate, taking up to a month to produce shoots, so for earlier blooms start them indoors two months before the average last frost date. Stratification increases the germination rate of bells of Ireland. You can expose them to cold by sowing them outdoors in the fall, or by refrigerating them for a week before starting them indoors. Maintenance: Keep bells of Ireland consistently moist. Bells of Ireland are top heavy, and they may topple over after a heavy rain or in areas exposed to wind. Stake the blooming stalks, grow the compact variety, or grow them in a sheltered area to keep the spires upright. Bells of Ireland don’t rebloom, so you can remove plants past their prime without guilt. However, you may want to leave them in place long enough for the seeds to mature and scatter, as these annuals are self-sowing. Design Tips: Bells of Ireland flowers are easy to dry, and they add interest to fresh cut flower arrangements. The lime green flowers make an attractive foil for wine or magenta colored flowers, like ‘Red Velvet’ celosia, If you harvest Bells of Ireland for fresh or dried bouquets, wear gloves to protect your hands from the small spiny thorns that grow along the stems. The stiff calyces of bells of Ireland last up to two weeks in fresh arrangements, but the flowers don’t maintain their green tint as dried specimens. The bells will gradually turn tan when they dry. Varieties: Pixie Bells: A compact variety of the heirloom species, topping out at two feet tall |
Moluccella laevis (Bells-of-Ireland, Bells of Ireland, Molucca balmis, Shellflower, Shell flower) rumor has it that the pollinator of this Lamiaceae is the common house fly. By CarolSpears, via Wikimedia Commons |
Nicotiana langsdorfii Supplier of Nicotiana langsdorfii from Europe Supplier of Nicotiana langsdorfii' from USA |
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Pale apple green tubular flowers flared at mouth dangle delicately. Annual. 36″ Nicotiana are a great family of very long-flowering half hardy annuals, many of them with lovely evening and night scent. Nicotiana are moth pollinated, so pour out the fragrance when the moths are around. |
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Nicotiana langsdorfii. By Kurt Stueber via Wikimedia Commons |
Nicotiana alata (Flowering tobacco) Supplier of Nicotiana alata Grandiflora Plants Supplier of Nicotiana alata 'Lime Green' from UK |
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The best form is still the species N. alata (often called Jasmine Tobacco) which produces tall, graceful stems of pale, nodding flowers with starry faces. Its soft, sweet perfume peaks at dusk on warm nights, attracting exotic pollinators and domestic gardeners to its calming presence. Bloom starts in July and continues into fall in a protected spot. These 3-4ft plants stand up to rough weather without staking and are not fussy about soil. A half day of sun is plenty, which makes it easy to tuck them in near a door or window and get their perfume indoors. |
Nicotiana alata 'Lime Green' has velvety, acid-green trumpet flowers that mix with any colour. One of my absolute cutting garden staples. This tends to get mildew in my garden, so keep it well watered, or to be extra safe, consider a douse of Bordeaux mixture. Nicotiana are a great family of very long-flowering half hardy annuals, many of them with lovely evening and night scent. Nicotiana are moth pollinated, so pour out the fragrance when the moths are around. |
Nicotiana alata. By Carl E Lewis via Wikimedia Commons |
Amaranthus caudatus 'Viridis' |
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Amaranthus caudatus 'Viridis' has long, soft tassels of pale, fresh acid-green. This makes one of the best upper level foliage plants for an elegant, mixed arrangement. Perfect for mixing with dahlias and sunflowers, or arranging in a large vase on its own. |
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Amaranthus caudatus. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons |
Zinnia elegans 'Benary's Giant Lime' |
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To 3’ tall, we love these large flowered Zinnias with blooms 4”-5” across. Nice double flowers on well-branching plants, Benary’s Zinnias are prolific, drought tolerant & mildew resistant. Grow in the foreground of darker foliage or purple-blue blooming Salvias or mix all the shades for a carnival of color! Excellent cut flower & attracts butterflies! Rich soil for best show. |
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Echinacea |
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Position: full sun Soil: most soils, except very dry or boggy Flowering period: June to September Very floriferous in summer, this fresh-faced coneflower sets off rich plums and purples to perfection. It is a neat grower and the tips of the ray-florets have a slightly feathered effect, which gives them a subtle softness. |
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Echinacea purpurea, flower head before blossom. By tracy from north brookfield, Massachusetts, usa via Wikimedia Commons |
Echinacea |
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Broad-petalled flowers open deep green, red spreading from the centre as they mature Jul-Oct. Sturdy 90cm, hardy perennial. Found by Mark Veeder - well done! |
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Petunia 'Crazytunia Green with Envy' Supplier |
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Flowering Period: June, July, August, September, October Position: full sun Marvel at the unique blooms of Petunia 'Crazytunia Green with Envy' as they slowly change colour before your eyes. The contrasting pink markings gradually takes over each lime green petal until the blooms are almost entirely pink. This compact, upright petunia has a robust habit and superb weather resistance which ensures a brilliant performance throughout summer. Plant them in beds, containers and baskets for a magnificent display that will stop people in their tracks. Height: 25cm (10"). Spread: 30cm (12"). |
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Bupleurum rotundifolium 'Green Gold' (Thorow-Wax, Common Hare's Ear) |
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This useful hardy annual adds zingy spring freshness to borders and cut flower arrangements later on in the season. Euphorbia-like, citrus green flowers bloom on tall stems from July to September. Versatile and easy to grow, Bupleurum riotundifolium 'Green Gold' makes a superb filler for summer borders. Sow it alongside tall Ageratum, such as 'Timeless' for beautiful cut flowers, or interplanted with wildflowers for a stylish Cottage Garden look. If you like the look then let it set seed in late summer for drifts of fresh seedlings next year. Height: 80cm (31"). Spread: 40cm (16"). Flowering Period: July, August, September Sowing Months: March, April, May Position: full sun |
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Bupleurum rotundifolium (sensu Fischer et al. EfÖLS 2008) Location: field near Niederhollabrunn, district Korneuburg, Lower Austria - ca. 340 m a.s.l. Habitat: field border. By Stefan.lefnaer via Wikimedia Commons |
Further information is available from The American Hemerocallis Society |
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There are so many green varieties of daylilies to choose from; the reblooming ‘Green Flutter’ variety. ‘Green Iceburg,’ ‘Green Puff,’ and ‘Green Glitter’ are some other daylilies that display greenish-yellow blooms. Try planting them alongside one of the hundreds of daylily cultivars that feature green throats. |
So, Should You Eat Your Daylilies? I look forward some day soon to writing an article about eating daylilies where I can affirm that not only are they good for you, they are completely safe to eat. As of now, too much controversy exists about the daylily being a safe food. Until that affirming day, use your judgment, informed by the information referenced in this article and by the advice of real-life daylily-eaters you know, before you introduce this nutritious and beautiful plant into your diet. As with all new and exciting adventures you approach, begin with moderation. |
There are more than 330 American Hemerocallis Society Display Gardens throughout the United States and parts of Canada where you can view a variety of modern daylilies in a garden setting. |
Gladioli Further information from The British Gladiolus Society and North American Gladiolus Council |
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Gladiolus flowers are one of those blossoms that provide gardeners with an acid green accent that pairs well with other neon hued flowers in the garden. Buy the biggest bulbs you can find of green types like ‘Green Star’ to reap dramatic spikes for your flower arrangements. These tender bulbs aren’t hardy in areas colder than zone 8, so you must dig them up if you intend to keep them from year to year. |
Green flowers aren't everybody's first choice but if you've ever grown them you know how useful they are for creating a buffer between hot shades. They're also welcome additions to arrangements, framing brighter blooms like foliage does, but with more interesting form. The professional flower arrangers we know wouldn't be without them. Green Star is a very good grower for early season plantings and performs nicely for later plantings, too. |
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Hellebore Ashwood Nurseries has 34 Hellebores with green flowers in the UK and Carolyn's Shade Gardens in USA has some |
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Sometimes called the Lenten Rose because of its early bloom time, the hellebore was recognized as the perennial plant of the year by the Perennial Plant Association in 2005. This perennial is valued for its shade tolerance and hardiness, surviving zone 3 winters if grown in a sheltered area. In addition to mint green flowers, your plants may display white or purple flowers, and cross-pollination often leads to unexpected flower colors. |
Would you like to know how to grow hellebores? Nursery owner John Massey gives his advice and tips on how you can grow hellebores in your garden. Hellebores are easy to grow providing a few simple guidelines are followed. They prefer a rich soil with plenty of available moisture during their flowering period, but they also require excellent drainage: they are after all ‘snow-melt’ plants and, if you can grow them on a slope, they will naturally be well drained. Most are found on slightly alkaline soils in their natural habitat, but it really doesn’t matter too much whether the soil is neutral or slightly acidic, so long as there are plenty of nutrients. |
During Winter in Bloom (January and February) there are special exhibits and displays with ideas on how to create a beautiful winter garden, plus a programme of hellebore tours, lectures and a garden open day. |
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This flower will prove to you that green really does go with everything. The brilliant chartreuse color of zinnia ‘Envy’ can look cool or electric, depending on whether you pair it with white or bright flowers. Plant this hot weather lover at the same time you set out your tomatoes, when night temperatures average 60 degrees. |
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Green Flowers for Gardens and Flower Arrangements from Dengarden:- Green flowers are unusual in a world where people look for more traditional colors. But green blooms can add a unique touch to a flower garden and are often featured in floral designs. In an all white garden, some green flowers add a change where most green appears only in foliage. In general, pollinators like bees and butterflies are attracted by bright colors. That is why we usually see blooms in shades of red, pink, yellow, and orange. A few oddballs are pollinated by flies. The smell of a flower that attracts flies may be unpleasant to people as flies are famously attracted to the odor of garbage and rotting organic matter. Some of the green flowers presented here have been hybridized or genetically modified to produce green blooms. Many of these types are hard to grow and are produced by commercial growers. A few are not flowers at all, but large green bracts that resemble blooms. |
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Orchids - the Largest Group of Green Flowers There are thousands of orchid varieties that come in many colors, patterns, and forms. The color green can be found in so many types it would be difficult to list them here. Whether small blooms that appear in sprays that make beautiful bouquets or larger flowers used for corsages, green orchids go well with white, pale pinks, or pale yellows. Phalaenopsis or Moth orchid is a very popular orchid because it is easy to grow for commercial uses and makes a wonderful house plant. Cymbidium orchids are the thick, waxy flowers seen in old fashioned corsages. They come in various shades of green (as well as other colors) from pale yellowish green to dark green. Cymbidium also appears in a cascading form with small flowers blooming on long pendulous spikes grown in a hanging basket. |
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Easy to Grow Green Flowers:- |
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Corsican Hellebore or Helleborus corsicus is a lovely evergreen perennial that blooms in late winter. Round green cup shaped blooms hang below 3 leaflets. Plant in light shade in moist, well drained soil. Divide rhizomes in Spring after flowering. Corsican hellebores are deer resistant and toxic. They are poisonous if eaten. Handling may cause skin irritation in sensitive people. |
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Clematis florida Alba plena is a 6 - 8 foot vine with beautiful double blooms that come in cream colored then turn green as they mature. Flowers are 3 - 4 inches wide. Plant in partial shade or full sun. Cut back dried vine to lowest bud in late winter. Clematis prefer good drainage but enjoy watering during hot summer. The vines need support and will grow nicely on fences or porch rails. |
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Jack-in-the-Pulpit or Arisaema triphyllum is a low growing woodland plant that is native to the US. The flowering part of the pant is the spike (spandix) that grows in the center of a spathe that wraps around it. The spathe comes in a pale green then matures to a vivid green with purple or brown vertical stripes.The 2 foot tall plant blooms in Spring. Jack-in-the-Pulpit can be grown at home in a shaded area. Do not remove this plant from forests or parks but purchase in garden shops that specialize in native plants. Jack-in-the-Pulpit is pollinated by flies. |
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Green Tulips - Green accents occur in several varieties of tulips. Tulip Viridiflora is a white tulip with green shading that blooms late in Spring. Tulip formosa is a yellow flower with a greenish tint. Tulip China town is light pink with green accents. Tulip Greenland is bright pink with green accents. Tulip Spring green is white with vertical green strips. Plant tulip bulbs in Fall with the pointy side up. Sprinkle bone mean in the hole before covering with soil. |
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Green Flowering Shrubs:- |
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Hydrangea paniculata Little Lime or Mini Limelight are hardy, deciduous shrubs that flower in Summer and retain blossoms into Fall. The light green flowers turn pink in Fall. Hydrangea paniculata Limelight is larger and features 6 - 12 inch bloom clusters. Remove lower branches to produce a tree like form. The flower clusters of Hydrangea paniculata are more cone shaped than the rounded mop head type hydrangea. Cut flowers are long lasting and dry well. The lime green flowers of Limelight turn white with age. Allow hydrangea paniculata some afternoon shade. Water in hot weather. Plant in US Zone 3 - 8. |
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Mediterranean Spurge or Euphorbia characias is a shrubby non-succulent euphorbia that grows up to 3 feet tall with a 3 foot spread in US Zone 7 - 11. The stems have a purple tinge with bluish green leaves. Leaves are 4 - 6 inches long and densely packed. There are several green flowering cultivars of this tough,drought resistant plant. Tiny flowers grow inside bright green bracts Spring through Summer. Mediterranean spurge can be invasive in some areas. Cut flowers before they go to seed to avoid unwanted spread. Grow in full sun with some afternoon shade. This plant produces a toxic sap that can cause skin irritation if touched so wear gloves. |
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Herbs With Green Flowers:- |
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Angelica (Angelica Archangelica litoralis) or Wild Celery is an herb native to Northern Europe. A biannual, meaning that it flowers in the second year, Angelica dies after flowering. It grows up to 6 feet tall. Angelica prefers cool, moist soil Tiny light green blooms appear on large umbells. Angelica has medicinal and industrial uses and has been used to produce liquors. Wild celery is beautiful in a cottage or wildflower garden. |
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Lady's Mantle or Alchemilla vulgaris is a clump forming herbaceous perennial. It is a low growing plant with pretty, scalloped, grayish green leaves. Flowers appear in small clusters from late Spring through Summer. Grows well in US Zone 3 - 8. This low growing plant does well in rock gardens or in well drained neutral to alkaline soil. Though a slow grower it may be invasive in some areas. Pluck off faded blooms to avoid spread. Lady's Mantle has herbal and medicinal uses. The name "alchemilla" means "little magical one," perhaps for its ability to hold dew drops, adding a sparkle to the garden in early morning. |
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Rare Green Flowers:- |
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Chrysanthemums are popular Fall flowers that make for long lasting cut flowers. Most green chrysanthemums are grown commercially. Feeling Green is a button mum with tightly packed petals. This perennial is bushy and low maintenance. It produces small, apple green blooms. Grow in full sun in well drained soil. Pinch back buds throughout the summer. (If buds open in hot weather they will not last) Apple Crisp Green is white with a green center Anastasia Green is grown commercially. It is hard to find and more finicky than the usual home grown chrysanthemum. |
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Most carnations in florist shops have been dyed. You can do this at home (but probably not as well) by placing a white carnation in water with green food coloring. Make green edged white carnations by removing the flower just when the edges go green. Prado is a natural green carnation with very light, mint green petals. A new "carnation" is making a big noise in some circles. Dianthus barbatus Green Bell and Green Trick are not actually green flowers. These genetically modified Frankenflowers resemble a ball of bright green moss on the end of a traditional carnation stem. |
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"Raising Annuals in Greenhouse or Frame" by E.H. Jenkins from Chapter 2 of Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Books is a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.):- Annuals roughly divide themselves into 3 classes:
It should be stated, however, that quite a large number of the obviously hardy kinds are annually sown under glass, some for convenience; others, and these largely in the majority, for market work or commercial purposes. Others, too, as Penstemons and Antirrhinums, which, being perennial, have no claim to be classed among annuals, give such excellent results when treated as such, that each year considerable quantities are sown in warmth under glass during January and February, and with correct cultivation produce sturdy little bushes for planting in the open in April or quite early May. Many perfectly hardy kinds, as Sweet Pea, Cornflower, Nasturtium and Chrysanthemum, are also raised in this way, or, its near equivalent, the frame. Raising seeds under glass, therefore, be it greenhouse or frame, is possessed of many advantages. In the first place, the seed-pans or boxes are under control. Removed from the interferences of birds and animal pests, and secured from extreme changes of weather, a maximum seed-production results. These are important. It has, however, its drawbacks and disadvantages - pitfalls alike to the amateur and inexperienced, from which the more expert cultivator is immune. They are chiefly errors of cultivation:
Hence, while greenhouse and warmth might prove great time-savers on the one hand, a misuse of them on the other would be prejudicial to good results at the times of planting and flowering. The aim should be to provide sturdy, free-developing plants of medium size at the right moment, to the exclusion of thin and overdrawn, or others of excessive size. The former never develop; the latter rarely transplant well. In these circumstances those thirsting for knowledge would naturally inquire what is
From the moment the seed-leaf stage is passed the seed-pans or other receptacles should be arranged near the glass in a light, well-aired position to promote a sturdy growth, transplanting the seedlings when 1 or 2 rough leaves have been formed. Great care and vigilance will be needed in supplying water at such times, and a watchful eye must be kept so that the soil does not dry up too frequently. Chronic root-dryness can only end in failure, and must be guarded against. It is not infrequent where shelves are employed. Arranging the seed-pans on an improvised or temporarily raised stage near the glass on ashes or cocoa-nut fibre is to a great exyent a safeguard against such a happening. Something should also be said in respect of Soil for Seed Sowing should be fairly rich, finely pulverised by passing through a small mesh sieve, and moderately dry. A mixture of light loam, well-decayed leaf-mould, and sharp sand in about equal parts will be quite suitable. A slight addition of old manure, freed of worms and other insectr life by heating in an oven or under the stoke-hole fire, may also be employed. It is, however, not essential. All receptacles should be made ready in advance, the soil pressed moderatley firm in process of making up, and well saturated with water 24 hours in advance of being required for use. This is important. The covering soil for all seeds should be of the finest description, varying in thickness of 0.125 of an inch (3mms) for the finer seeds to 0.25 of an inch (6mms) for those of larger size. Seeds of certain plants, eg the Chinese Primulas, though moderately large, are impatient of much soil soil covering, a point worth remembering. Begonia and Calceolaria among the finer seeds may be sown practically on the surface, a shilling-thick covering of clean well-washed silver sand sufficing for the purpose. To prevent loss and to avoid an irregular vegetation of the crop all seeds should be sown on a moderately firm and quite even surface. In the case of pans and boxes, a small section of floor boarding lightly pressed over the surface will accomplish this. In the case of pots the flat base of one of like size as the receptacle will do quite well. With the seeds sown and covered in, all should be watered gently overhead from a fine rose can. From this time onwards to the vegetating of the seeds it is important that neither excess of moisture nor dryness be permitted to exist. Equally important is it that too frequent watering should be avoided. To this end and to avoid undue evaporation of moisture all seed-pans should be protected from strong sunlight by shading with brown paper or thin tiffany. Given this, a mist-like spray from the syringe daily will often suffice for days together. It should be done in the early fornoon. A good plan with the finest, most lightly covered seeds is never to water overhead, but to hold the receptacles nearly their full depth in a vessel containing water for a minute or 2 when necessary. Once the seeds have commenced to grow, the soil should be on no account be suffered to become dry. Many failures are due to this alone. Excess of wet is equally bad, and the "damping-off" fungus (Pythium) resulting, seedlings perish wholesale. With the appearing of the seedlings the permanent shading should be removed, a thinner shade being employed when necessary during strong sunlight a few days longer. Sowing the seeds thinly - Despite the fact that the injunction to "sow thinly" has been reiterated a 1001 times, the opposite extreme is still a commonplace with gardeners and amateurs alike. Seeds sown after the manner of mustard and cress are hampered from the very moment they appear, and, with timely thinning neglected, foredoomed to partial or complete failure. The thick sowing of seeds of all descriptions is in some measure due to their cheapness, plus not a little ignorance of the early development of the seedling. These things are opposed to success, and a sturdy plant is impossible. Hence once again it is necessary to urge the hackneyed phase, "Sow thinly." The smallest seeds produce often enough large cotyledons (seed leaves), the still larger often laterally disposed rough leaves following immediately, hence the difficulty of laying down any hard-and-fast rule from the seeds alone. On the diameter of a shilling a hundred or five times that number of seeds may find room in a single layer, while to sow them thinly a 10-inch (25 cms) square seed-pan may be none too large. In sowing the smaller seeds a peppering of clean silver sand first given to the sowing area will assist the operator to a more uniform - also thin - distribution of the seeds. On darker soils it is not possible to see where the seed falls. Thinning and pricking off - These bear some relation to each other and to the seed-sowing, and follow next in order and importance. Timely pricking off, wheile no panacea against the dangers arising from thick sowing, certainly reduces some of its risks ans should be indulged in as early as possible. With many seedlings the appearing of the first rough leaf is considered a good time, the seedlings then having a sufficiently advanced root-system to admit of the work being done with safety. Even in the case of thinly sown seeds, pricking off should not be unduly delayed since the isolation the operation affords in conjunction with better soil is calculated to give the youngster a good start in life. Tap-rooted or sparsely-rooted subjects rarely prick off well, hence the need for greater care in dealing with them. Here a word of warning to the amateur may not be out of place, the professional is already aware of it. It is this. Don not rely too much on the more vigorous seedlings to the discarding of the smaller; the latter give, frequently enough, the finer varieties. The soil for pricking off should be of rougher texture than that recommended for seed-sowing; it should also contain less sand and more finely sifted manure (I tend to favour used cow manure from winter bedding over that from horses). Raising in frames does not differ materially from raising in the greenhouse, and is, at most, but a question of degree. There are of course, the differences of the warmed and cold frames and each has its own value. A well-managed hot-bed of leaves and manure is indeed, one of the best places to raise seedlings, Cineraria, Calceolaria, Zinnia and China Aster, among others, revelling in the dgree of warmth, humidity, and the ammonia-charge atmospheric conditions that obtain. To some extent the seedling plants, too, are more immune from the attacks of aphides (green and other fly pests) than those raised under ordinary conditions. The ordinarily made dung-bed will require greater care. Excessive heat and rank steam are injurious, therefore to be avoided. Ventilation, too, is important. A safeguard against the former is a shallow bed of manure, say 12 inches (30 cms) thickness when settled down, or 18 inches (45 cms) when first made up. Watering, too, must be done with care, the amount of humidity in the frame and the condensing moisture playing important parts. Watering with tepid water is to be recommended, likewise the use of a thermometer. A temperature between 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit (7-10 degrees Celsius) will do quite well. The cold frame should occupy a sun-kissed spot. It is of especial value in cold districts and in gardens generally where, by reason of heavy and retentive soil conditions, seed-sowing in the open air rarely brings success. In certain other instances - the small amateur more particularly - the frame often enough is the only bit of glass existing, though, to his credit be it said, it is frequently engineered with skill, and prodigal of good results. As an adjunct to the greenhouse and warmed frame it also merits attention, a two-light frame with division being alike useful for raising seedlings and for hardening off. Seedling-raising in the cold frame is naturally a slower process though assisted by increasing sunlight and sun-heat. At the same time the plants so raised are of a sturdy and hardy nature and with ordinary care transplant well. Mid-March to early April will be found a good time to make a start, keeping the seed-pans or other receptacles quite near the glass. Less water will be needed generally, though soil dryness must always be guarded against. Confined damp - a stuffy condition - whether here or in the heated frame, must be avoided; nothing so much favours the creation and spread of the "damping-off" fungus as this and too frequent watering. In other respects, the cultural conditions already given apply, the measure of success attained being also the measure of the prevailing intelligence and enthusiasm of individual workers.
Annuals and Biennials for Autumn Sowing:-
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"Alphabetical list of the best Annuals and Biennials in 1916" from Part II of Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Books is a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.):- |
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h.a denotes hardy annual |
height in inches (cms) |
h.h.a denotes half-hardy annual |
height in inches (cms) |
g.a denotes greenhouse annual |
height in inches (cms) |
biennial |
height in inches (cms) |
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Alyssum maritimum (Sweet Allyssum) |
6 (15) |
Ageratum mexicanum |
18 (45) |
Browallia speciosa major |
12 (30) |
Althaea rosea (Hollyhocks are really perennials, but they are commonly grown as biennials) |
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Anagallis indica (Blue Pimpernel) |
12 (30) |
Alonsoa warscewiczii |
18-24 (45-60) |
Celosia plumosa (The Feathered, not the Crested Cockscomb |
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Anchusa italica (A perennial, but best treated as an annual) |
36-60 (90-150) |
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Antirrhinum (Snapdragon is a short-lived perennial in some soils and best treated as an annual) |
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Amarantus |
12-36 (30-90) |
Cobaea scandens |
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Bellis perennis (Double Daisy, They are more or less perennial, but they are apt to deteriorate and are best treated as biennials) |
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Argemone (Mexican Poppy) |
36 (90) |
Arctotis grandis |
18 (45) |
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Campanula pyramidalis (Chimney Bellflower - A short-lived perennial, but usually treated as a biennial) |
60-84 (150-210) |
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Asperula azurea setosa (Blue Woodruff) |
9 (22.5) |
Bartonia |
18 (45) |
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Cheiranthus cheiri (Wallflower) |
9-24 (22.5-60) |
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Borago officinalis (Borage) |
24 (60) |
Brachycome iberidifolia (Swan River Daisy) |
12 (30) |
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Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William) |
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Cacalia coccinea |
12 (30) |
Callistephus hortensis (China Aster) |
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Digitalis purpurea |
60-84 (150-210) |
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Calendula officinalis (Pot Marigold) |
18 (45) |
Cosmos bipinnatus |
72 (180) |
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Erygium giganteum (Silver Thistle) |
36 (90) |
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Campanula macrostyla |
24 (60) |
Cucurbita (Gourd) |
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Campanula medium (Canterbury Bell) |
24-36 (60-90) |
Datura |
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Centaurea cyanus (Cornflower) |
24-36 (60-90) |
Dianthus (Indian Pink) |
9 (22.5) |
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Centaurea moschata (Purple Sweet Sultan), Centaurea margarita (White) and Centaurea suaveolens (Yellow Sweet Sultan) |
18-24 (45-60) |
Diascia barberae |
9 (22.5) |
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Chenopodium atriplicis purpurascens (Atriplex hortensis) |
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Didiscus coeruleus |
18 (45) |
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Chrysanthemum |
24-36 (60-90) |
Dimor-photheca aurantiaca |
12 (30) |
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Clarkia elegans and Clarkia pulchella |
24 (60) |
Eccremocarpus scaber |
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Collinsia bicolor |
12 (30) |
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Collomia coccinea |
12 (30) |
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Convolvulus major (Ipomaea purpurascens) |
96-120 (240-300) |
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Convolvulus minor (Convolvulus tricolor) |
12 (30) |
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Coreopsis tinctoria |
36 (90) |
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Crepis barabata rubra (Hawkweed) |
12 (30) |
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Delphinium (Larkspur) |
24-48 (60-120) |
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DESIGNING WITH ANNUALS As garden centers start to fill up with enticing displays of annuals, it's easy to grab everything you can and think about where to plant it all later. If you want a cohesive design (face it, we all know that looks better), here are a few essential tips for designing with annuals:
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STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
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Annual for ----------------
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Cut Flowers |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Vining Annuals |
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Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
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Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
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Bedding Plant Use |
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Use in Hanging Baskets |
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Flower Simple Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Use in Pots and Troughs |
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Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in |
Use in |
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Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
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Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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1a. |
1b. |
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2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
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Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
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Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
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and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
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40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
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Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
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Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
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Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
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Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
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Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
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Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
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1 |
Blue |
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Cream |
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1 |
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White A-D |
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1 Yellow |
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Flowering plants of |
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Flowering plants of |
The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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1 (o) |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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1 (o) |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |