Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill3 Plants Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill3 Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Cultivation Details |
Varieties |
Plant Photos It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
From Bulbs in Window-boxes in Indoor Bulb Growing by Edward Pearson. Published by Purnell & Sons, Ltd in 1953:- The kinds that can be used outside are much the same as those for inside, with few exceptions. The list of suitable bulbs is restricted for the reasons given later, but which are mainly the long time between planting and flowering, and the important point that almost all bulbs which are not forced will give a much better display if they remain undisturbed for 2 or 3 years. The way round this time and seasonal difficulty is a compromise between bulbs and Alpines planted together in a rockery-box. This method will give at least 1 or 2 successive groups of flowers over a longer season than that of the usual window-box display. The gardener must therefore choose between a bold and comparitively short-lived display and a more varied and interesting arrangement over a much longer time. The planting time for bulbs falls into 3 main divisions:
It will be clear from this that, if the object of a window-box is to provide a succession of colour from the earliest to the latest possible time, bulbs can only be made use of to cover a brief period during 1 season. The long time between planting and flowering forbids the use of the box to annuals, etc, thus wiping out its main object of continual colour. For instance, it may be very exhilarating to plan a display of autumn-flowering bulbs, but it is more than likely that to carry out the plan will mean sacrificing an equally lovely display of, say, Petunias, Geraniums, or Chrysanthemums. Many of the spring-planted bulbs are too tall for window-box work, and, in addition, their use means a colourless box from March until June or even later, which is absurd. This difficulty can be bypassed in planting up a reserve box, which is substituted at the right moment for the one whose display is over. Thus, when the last annuals have flowered, or other plants have been taken away for fear of frost, the second box, containing autumn-flowering Crocuses, can be put in their place. Or, again, a reserve of bulbs can be grown on elsewhere in pots to be plunged into the window-box at the right time. Now this seems in principle to be a very happy solution, but in practice I feel it would spell a great deal of unhappiness, by no means offset by the results. In these days of increasing leisure and decreasing space, time for such work can be found; but a place to keep and preserve a spare window-box under moderately correct conditions is a different matter and one which would lead to much domestic annoyance. Under all these circumstance, it is best to use the window-box for autumn-planted bulbs, which can be removed from the box after spring flowering, and, at the right time, to plant up with annuals, etc. For this work there is a very wide and interesting range from which to choose. The main principles of culture that have already been noted for indoor growing apply equally to out of doors. The planting time is still from September through October; planting depths are deeper, thus avoiding the need to keep the bulbs in the dark until they are well rooted; and watering is simpler, providing that the soil is never allowed to dry out or, through faulty drainage, to become sodden and waterlogged. As the types of bulbs recommended are all hardy and vigorous, there is no need to worry about temperatures. If the choice is for a mixture of bulbs in a rockery box the following are suitable subjects: (descriptions have been given to those bulbs which have not been mentioned before in the Indoor Bulbs Calendar Month Pages) |
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Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) Chionodoxa, known as glory-of-the-snow, is a small genus of bulbous perennial flowering plants in the family Asparagaceae, subfamily Scilloideae, often included in Scilla. |
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These can be best used in groups in a rockery-box or grown with Muscari Azureum, or as an edging to some other March-flowering bulb. They are not fully effective if exclusively occupying the box. "Pot in either compost or fibre in September at approximately 2 inches (5 cms) apart and at 3 inches (7.5 cms) depth. They should be treated thereafter as for Narcissi, save that they need cool growing conditions. Repot in September." from Indoor Bulbs. |
Gigantea (synonym of Chionodoxa luciliae) Luciliae (Scilla luciliae, Lucile's glory-of-the-snow) Luciliae Pink Giant Nana (Scilla nana, Chionodoxa cretica) Sardensis |
Scilla luciliae, The Morton Arboretum (East Woods) in Lisle, Illinois. By Jason Sturner from Knoxville, Tennessee, USA via Wikimedia Commons. |
Spring Crocuses |
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Pot, in October and November, 10 bulbs in a 5 inch (12.5 cms) or 4 in in a 3 inch (7.5 cms) vessel. Use specially prepared bulb fibre or John Innes compost and treat as for Hyacinths. Water. Do not water freely until growth starts, and, when the leaves start to die down restrict water again. Fertilisers. None are needed when special compost is used. Temperature. Once growth has started and the corms are well rooted they will do best if grown at from 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius) to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 degrees Celsius). Position. South or west window with adequate light. Flowering. Through December, January and February, depending on the variety. Use corms of a size not less than 7-8 cms. Resting. After flowering, and when the leaves have died down and the bulbs have ripened, they can be planted in the garden. It is not advisable to use them for house work in 2 successive seasons. |
Varieties:- Maximilian. Purpurea Grandiflora Remembrance Snowstorm Yellow Mammoth Zwanenburg Species Chrysanthus E. A. Bowles Chrysanthus Zwanenburg Bronze Imperati Biflorus (Scotch Crocus) There are other Crocuses in the Colchicum and Crocus Gallery. |
Crocus biflorus. By Meneerke bloem via Wikimedia Commons. |
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Autumn-flowering Species. If potted in August and September, the following will flower from September to December. It is most important that they are grown under cool conditions:- "Pot, in October and November, 10 bulbs in a 5 inch (12.5 cms) or 4 in in a 3 inch (7.5 cms) vessel. Use specially prepared bulb fibre or John Innes compost and treat as for Hyacinths. Water. Do not water freely until growth starts, and, when the leaves start to die down restrict water again. Fertilisers. None are needed when special compost is used. Temperature. Once growth has started and the corms are well rooted they will do best if grown at from 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius) to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 degrees Celsius). Position. South or west window with adequate light. Flowering. Through December, January and February, depending on the variety. Use corms of a size not less than 7-8 cms. Resting. After flowering, and when the leaves have died down and the bulbs have ripened, they can be planted in the garden. It is not advisable to use them for house work in 2 successive seasons." |
Longiflorus Sativus (Saffron Crocus) Speciosus Zonatus |
Crocus biflorus. By Meneerke bloem via Wikimedia Commons. |
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Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite) All parts of the plant are poisonous when consumed by humans and other mammals. |
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The dark-green leaves appear in January, and the flowering period is from January to March. This a welcome and useful plant because of its hardiness, earliness and ability to give a display of butter-yellow flowers in a shady position. Plant in September or October at 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cms) deep and 3 inches (7.5 cms) apart in clumps with other bulbs. "Pot into 3-inch (7.5 cm) pots or pans in October. Tubers should be put at 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) deep and close together (about 6-8 in a 3-4 inch (7.5-10 cms) pan). Bulb fibre is a satisfactory potting medium, but equal parts of leaf-mould, loam and sand can be used. Water moderately at all times. Temperature. When taken from the cold in December they should be brought for 3-4 weeks into an atmosphere of 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). They need the coolest possible conditions and are better when not brought into a warmer temerature until in bud." from Indoor Bulbs. |
Cilicica Hyemalis Tubergeni |
Eranthis hyemalis Winterakoniet op Begraafplaats Meppelerstraatweg in Zwolle. By Onderwijsgek via Wikimedia Commons. |
Fritillaria meleagris (Snake's Head) |
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Pot in September into equal parts of leaf-mould, peat and sand at 2.5 inches (6.25 cms) apart and 3 inches (7.5 cm) depth. Water very sparingly until the first sign of top growth appears. Temperature. Cool at all times. Position. Fritillaria will stand moderate shade. Flowering. April. |
Meleagris alba Meleagris Aphrodite Meleagris Charon Meleagris Saturnus A mixture of varieties can also be used. |
Fritillaria meleagris. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons. |
Iris species The American Iris Society has info about irises, as does The British Iris Society. |
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These Iris are not for every window-box, because they need a warm, sheltered position and some care in cultivation, and give best results if left undisturbed for a few years. Plant in clumps with other bulbs in August or September. The bulbs should be planted in a compost of equal parts of fibrous loam, leaf-mould and coarse sand, or John Innes potting compost. Depth and distance apart 3 inches (7.5 cms). "Thereafter, treat them in the same way as other bulbs which do not like coddling, such as Eranthis, Scillas, etc, but they will require a reasonably warm, sunny position and will not thrive in cold or shade." from Indoor Bulbs. |
Iris danfordiae Iris Histrioides Major - Sadly this once popular bulb is no longer freely available but there are other good, similar cultivars. ‘Angel’s Eye’ (‘Angels’ Tears’) and ‘Lady B Stanley’ are recommended. Iris Reticulata Iris Cantab Iris Reticulata J. S. Dijt Iris stylosa Iris reticulata Cantab and Iris J.S. Dijt are recommended for general use. |
Iris reticulata. By Rasbak via Wikimedia Commons. |
Ixiolirion pallasi |
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Elegant clusters of deep-blue, tubular flowers. Hardy. 12 inches (30 cms). May-June. |
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Plant in clumps during September-October, preferably in a sandy loam, though they will flourish in any reasonable soil. Small bulbs at 2 inches (5 cms) deep and 1 inch (2.5 cms) apart. Large bulbs up to 4 inches (10 cms) deep and 3 inches (7.5 cms) apart. They can also be used as an edging for the window-box. "Water moderately until after flowering and then dry off the bulbs. Fertilisers. Occasional dose of complete fertiliser, up to flowering. Temperature. 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius)." from Indoor Bulbs. |
Armeniacum Azureum Azureum album Botryoides Album Heavenly Blue Latifolium Moschatum Plumosum Tubergenianum |
Muscari armeniacum. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons. |
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Narcissi (Miniatures) |
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Plant in September or October, 5 inches (12.5 cms) apart and 4 inches (10 cms) deep, in ordinary soil or John Innes compost. Size of bulbs to be used - D.N.I. Flowering time: March-April. "Narcissi Classification. The Royal Horticultural Society has recently revised the classification of Daffodils. There are now (in 1953 - in 1975 the Revised Classification increased this to 13 and the RHS published this in the International Register of Daffodil names and I have detailed these in the Narcissus Gallery) 11 main divisions, which are divided into various sub-sections. The purpose of this is that there should be some clear distinction between the many groups of Daffodils. It does not seem necessary that the ordinary gardener or person wishing to grow Daffodils in the house should worry overmuch about the exact classification of the particular variety. Therefore the varieties which are suggested later have been grouped into one or other of the 11 main divisions of classification. Thus, Jonquilla (Div. 7), Tazetta (Div. 8), Cyclamineus (Div. 6) are shown under Minatures; while the Trumpets, classified under Division 1 with 3 sub-sections, are grouped simply under Trumpets. Even this may be thought a little pedantic, but the reader has only to pick up the many good bulb catalogues issued every year to find that the Daffodils are listed under their exact Horticultural classification. Plant them in either bulb fibre, John Innes compost or a mixture of 2 parts loam, 1 part leaf-mould, 1 part sand. To the last medium add 3 teaspoonfuls of medium bone-meal, or 2 teaspoonfuls of superphosphates to each 5 inch (12.5 cms) receptacle used. A non-porous vessel must be used when planting is done in bulb fibre. After planting give the compost a thorough soaking, preferably by standing the pot in a few inches of water until the surface of the fibre becomes moist throughout. Water. From potting until the time when the foliage dies the fibre must be kept continually moist. Watering should be increased from the time that top growth starts. The miniature Narcissi need rather more water than the bigger varieties, at all times. Fertilisers. Little fertiliser is needed if the initial dose of bone-meal is administered with the potting mixture. But from the emergence of the flower bud a complete fertiliser can be watered into the pots to ensure good-quality and robust flowers and to help build up the bulb. Temperature. 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 degrees Celsius) from potting time until rooted (approximately 6 weeks); 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) for leaf and stem growth; 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 degrees Celsius) for flower development. These temperatures are ideals and almost impossible to maintain over the time needed and under average house conditions. Nevertheless it is possible to get satisfactory results with conditions which come close to such ideals. When about 3 inches (7.5 cms) of leaf growth has been made they can be put in a sunny window at a temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 degrees Celsius)." from Indoor bulbs. |
Juncifolius Miniatures Treat these Miniature bulbs in the same way as the ordinary Narcissi. They need, however, to be potted in a rougher compost than that used for normal Daffodils. If ordinary bulb fibre is used, add a proportion of fine flint grit and a greater proportion than is normal of oyster shell. All the Miniature Daffodils need more water than the ordinary kind, but particularly Narcissus Cyclamineus and Narcissus Bulbocodium. In potting, it is best to plant 6-8 bulbs to a 5-inch (12.5 cm) pan and to leave them undisturbed for from 2 to 3 years. |
Narcissus 'Cheerfulness'. Real Jardín Botánico, Madrid. By A. Barra via Wikimedia Commons. |
Ornithogalum nutans |
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Pot 1 large bulb into a 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot in September, using either John Innes potting compost or a mixture of 2 parts sandy loam with equal parts peat and sand. After potting, place in cool dark until growth starts, and then bring to a well-lighted window. Water. Keep compost moist until growth starts. Water freely when bulbs are formed and decrease after flowering. When foliage fades keep them dry. Temperature. 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4-10 degrees Celsius) from potting to early spring. |
Arabicum Nutans |
Ornithogalum nutans. By Florian Siebeck via Wikimedia Commons. |
Puschkinia scilloides (Striped Squill), Puschkinia hyacinthoides, Puschkinia libanotica) |
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Plant in October, 4 inches (10 cms) deep and 2 inches (5 cms) apart, for flowering in March. Use in clumps with other bulbs. "Dainty white flowers shaded and striped with blue. 4 inches (10 cms). Plant in shallow pan and treat as Eranthis, etc:- Bulb fibre is a satisfactory potting medium, but equal parts of leaf-mould, loam and sand can be used. Water moderately at all times." from Indoor Bulbs. |
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Puszkinia cebulicowata Puschkinia libanotica. By Barbara Wrzesińska via Wikimedia Commons. |
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The Scilla campanulata can claim a place in window-boxes on an equal footing with Dutch Hyacinth. The entire box can be given over to them. Plant in October, in a soil with a large proportion of leaf-mould, 3-3.5 inches (7.5-8.72 cms) apart and 4 inches (10 cms) deep, using top-size bulbs and different varieties flowering at the same time. They will succeed in semi-shade. "Thereafter they should be treated as for Narcissi:- "A non-porous vessel must be used when planting is done in bulb fibre. After planting give the compost a thorough soaking, preferably by standing the pot in a few inches of water until the surface of the fibre becomes moist throughout. Water. From potting until the time when the foliage dies the fibre must be kept continually moist. Watering should be increased from the time that top growth starts. The miniature Narcissi need rather more water than the bigger varieties, at all times."
Position. South or west window. " from Indoor Bulbs. |
Varieties (with very large flower heads):- Campanula Alba maxima Jacques Lilacena Queen of the Pinks Rose Queen
Dwarf varieties:- Bifolia Siberica (Siberian Squill) Siberica Spring Beauty Tubergeniana
The small-flowered varieties should be used in clumps and planted at 3 inch (7.5 cms) depth with 2 inches (5 cms) between each bulb. |
Deutsch: Zweiblättriger Blaustern - Scilla bifolia. Aufgenommen im Waldpark in Mannheim-Neckarau, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland. English: Two-leaf squill - Scilla bifolia. Taken in the Waldpark in Mannheim-Neckarau, Baden-Württemberg, Germany. By Andreas Eichler via Wikimedia Commons. |
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Galanthus (Snowdrops) Hardy Plant Society Galanthus Group for further details on Snowdrops. |
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A very early subject for the window-box. Under good conditions they will flower from January. Snowdrops will do well in a shady position. Plant in September or October, 4 inches (10 cms) deep and from 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cms) apart, in groups. "Thereafter, treat in the same way as Narcissi and Daffodil. Water very moderately throughout pot life, and when flowering is over the bulbs can immediately be planted outdoors. Temperature. They should be kept as cool as possible at all times. Position. North, east or west windows. Flowering. January-February." from Indoor Bulbs. |
nivalis nivalis flore pleno Elwesii Arnott's Seedling |
Nahaufnahme vom Kleinen Schneeglöckchen (Galanthus nivalis). By Darkone via Wikimedia Commons. |
Sternbergia lutea (Winter Daffodil) |
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October-flowering. The blooms, which are Crocus-shaped, are shining yellow on sturdy stems. 6-8 inches (15-20 cms). Prefers dry conditions and maximum sun. Cultivations are as those for Amaryllis:- "Pot. The bulbs should be potted in August, 1 in a 5 inch (12.5 cms) pot, and planted so that only 0.33 of the bulb shows above the soil-level. Until the flower stem appears they are best left outside (if possible, in a frame or else in a dark cupboard); at that time they can be brought into the house and a cool room. The leaves grow during the winter months and the flower stems appear when the leaves have died down. Water moderately until leaves turn yellow, when water should be withheld. Freely when flower-buds appear. After flowering, water regularly. Temperature. 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit (10-15.5 degrees Celsius) from the time that the flower stem shows. Repot every 3 years." |
Angustifolia |
Sternbergia lutea, 18 septembre 2004, cultivé. By Jean-Jacques MILAN via Wikimedia Commons. |
Tulips: Botanical and Tulips in Window-boxes |
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For colour and sturdiness the Tulip is the best bulb for window-boxes; the stiff stems will stand against strong winds and the petals remain brilliantly flowering after quite severe weather. Tulip bulbs should be discarded after flowering, because, more often than not, the second season's flowers are small and disappointing. Plant in October, 4 inches (10 cms) deep and 5 inches (12.5 cms) apart, in loam and leaf-mould or John Innes No. 2, using 10-11 cm bulbs. |
Sylvestris - Pale yellow, medium egg-shaped flowers. Fragrant. 7 inches (17.5 cms). Biflora - White inner petals, outer shaded green. Three or more flowers to a bulb. 5 inches (12.5 cms). Batalini - Delicate chrome yellow, shading darker to the centres. Several flowers to a bulb. 5 inches (12.5 cms). Linifolia - Bright vermilion scarlet, black-based flowers. Several flowers to a bulb. Succeeds best when well established. 6 inches (15 cms). |
Tulip varieties in window-boxes:- Early Doubles (Flowering April)- El Toreador, Mme Testout, Marechal Niel, Peach Blossom, Tea Rose. Triumph (Flowering late April and early May) - The best type for window-boxes owing to their stamina and weather resistance - Bandoeng, Denbola, Piccadilly, Northern Queen, Red Matador, Rhineland, Wintergold. Darwin (May flowering) - These are very tall and are only recommended for boxes in sheltered positions - Allbright, Arabian Nights, Campfire, Chappaqua, Clara Bute, Golden Age, Pride of Zwanenburg, Princess Elizabeth, Scarlet Leader, The Bishop, Zwanenburg. Late Cottage or Lily Flowered (May flowering) - Capt. Fryatt (Lily-flowered), G.W. Leak, Mongolia, Picotee (Lily-flowered), Rosy Wings. |
Zephranthes candida |
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Soil
Drainage. It is most important to see that the bottom of the window-box is provided with adequate drainage holes of 0.5 inch (1.25 cms) diameter each and spaced diagonally at 6 inch (15 cms) intervals. Crocking large enough to cover these holes must also be provided. In order to secure free drainage past the crocking and through the holes a good layer of coarse compost, moss or turf should be laid in the bottom of the box before filling with soil. Watering. Use a watering-can fitted with a fine rose. Planting. The box must be filled about 10 days before planting so as to allow the soil time to settle and condense. Planting should be carried out (particularly for the larger bulbs0, with a trowel and not a dibber, as the latter will often leave a hollow beneath the planted bulb. |
candida |
Scientific name: Zephyranthes candida Place:Osaka-fu Japan • 日本語: タマスダレ. By • タマスダレ • 利用者:KENPEI/画像集/植物 via Wikimedia Commons. |
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STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
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Annual for ----------------
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Cut Flowers |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Vining Annuals |
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Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
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Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
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Bedding Plant Use |
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Use in Hanging Baskets |
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Flower Simple Shape |
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Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
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Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
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Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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1a. |
1b. |
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2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elaborated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
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Topic |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
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Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
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Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
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and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
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UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
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40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
|
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
||
Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
||
Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
|
Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
|
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
|
Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
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Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
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1 |
Blue |
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1 |
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1 |
Cream |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
White A-D |
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1 Yellow |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
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1 |
Flowering plants of |
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The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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. |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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. |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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. |
Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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1 (o) |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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1 (o) |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
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