Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill3 Plants Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill3 Plants Index Gallery: |
||||||||
Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Cultivation Details |
Varieties |
Plant Photos It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant. Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries. If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes. If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with. I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos. |
|
|
|
|
|
A tuberous-rooted plant for summer flowering. The hybrids mentioned alongside are exquisite and will amply repay the little trouble needed to grow them. Pot, from January-March, 6 tubers into a 6-inch (15 cms) pan, using a compost similar to that proscribed for Begonias. Plant at 1 inch (2.5 cms) depth. Water. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, at all times until flowering is over. Water must then be reduced. When the leaves are dead, keep the tubers quite dry. Fertilisers. Water in, from time to time, a complete fertiliser as soon as there is a good root development. Temperature. 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) Position. South Window or where there is ample light. Shade from bright sunshine. Resting. When dry, the tubers can either remain in the pans or be lifted and stored in dry sand. In either case they should not be stored where excessive cold or frost is likely to harm them. General. Achimenes tend to soft growth and need early support. The stems are very slender. They can be useful and decorative in hanging pots. |
Grandiflora Brilliant (hybrid) Charm (hybrid) Magnificent (hybrid) Little Beauty (hybrid) Purple King (hybrid) Longiflora Major patens |
Achimenes patens 'Major', a cultivar selected from a species of rhizomatous, herbaceous, tender perennial plant. By SiGarb via Wikimedia Commons. |
|
Autumn Crocuses |
|
|
|
|
|
Pot, in October and November, 10 bulbs in a 5 inch (12.5 cms) or 4 in in a 3 inch (7.5 cms) vessel. Use specially prepared bulb fibre or John Innes compost and treat as for Hyacinths. Water. Do not water freely until growth starts, and, when the leaves start to die down restrict water again. Fertilisers. None are needed when special compost is used. Temperature. Once growth has started and the corms are well rooted they will do best if grown at from 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius) to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 degrees Celsius). Position. South or west window with adequate light. Flowering. Through December, January and February, depending on the variety. Use corms of a size not less than 7-8 cms. Resting. After flowering, and when the leaves have died down and the bulbs have ripened, they can be planted in the garden. It is not advisable to use them for house work in 2 successive seasons. Autumn-flowering Species |
Longiflorus Sativus (Saffron Crocus) Speciosus Zonatus There are other Crocuses in the Colchicum and Crocus Gallery. |
Crocus longiflorus. By Meneerke bloem via Wikimedia Commons. |
Lilium speciosum Cats are extremely sensitive to lilly toxicity and ingenstion is often fatal; households and gardens which are visited by cats are strongly advised against keeping this plant or placing dried flowers where a cat may brush against them and become dusted with pollen which they then consume while cleaning. |
|
|
|
|
|
The preferred months for potting are October and November, if it is possible to get the bulbs during those months. When Lily bulbs are received they may be soft and limp. If they are, they should, as long as they have a reasonable root system, be buried in moist sand for approximately a fortnight (14 days) in order to plump them, in which state they can be planted properly. A mixture of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, decayed manure and coarse sand is suitable, or John Innes potting compost. The varieties suggested in the next column are stem-rooting, so that the method of potting is applicable only to such varieties. Pot 1 bulb into a 5-inch (12.5 cms) or 6-inch (15 cms) pot, or 3 into an 8 inch or 10 inch (20 or 25 cms) pot. It is most necessary to give adequate drainage. Put about 2 inch (5 cms) of compost in the pot and then plant the bulbs, afterwards adding only sufficient compost compost to cover them. Planting must be very firm. After planting, the final level of the soil should not be over 0.75 of the depth of the pot, so that further dressings of compost can be given when the stems are about 6-inches (15 cms) high and the stem roots are forming. After potting, the Lilies can be started in a cool place. There is no need to keep them in the dark. Normally, Lily bulbs will have rooted within a fortnight of potting. When the shoots are about 3 inches (7.5 cms - it is absolutely imperative that not an extra micron is allowed in growth before the concluding part of this sentence is executed! or the original author might turn in his grave - we dot know whether he was interred or cremated. No doubt the reader of this bit of drivel might do the research and put us out of our misery... etc, etc, etc) the Lilies can be brought into more light, but direct sunlight should be avoided (sounds as though when these plants are outside in the ground, that only sunshades should be provided but that moonshades are not required since the heat in the the sun's rays has been absorbed by the moon and only the light passed on for the romantic earthmen - they're coming to take me away). Water. After potting, the soil should be kept moist. When in full growth water liberally. After flowering, decrease, and finally withold water during the resting time. Feriliser. A complete fertiliser should be watered in every fortnight after the flower buds have formed. Soot-water can be used instead. Temperature. 50-65 degrees Fahrenheit (10-18.3 degrees Celsius). Repot. When ripened, the Lilies recommended for indoor flowering, alongside, should be repotted. |
Auratum Longiflorum (Trumpet Tree Lily, Easter Lily, Japanese: テッポウユリ, Teppōyuri) Philippinense Formosanum Rubellum Speciosum Speciosum album kractzeri |
Longi lily (Lilium longiflorum) also known as the Easter Lily as that was the time of year it was traditionally in bloom. Modern cultivars are available in bloom for much of the year and are popular as cut flowers. By Solipsist~commonswiki via Wikimedia Commons. |
|
|
|
|
|
Although this hardy plant was introduced to England in the early years of the nineteenth century, there are few signs of it as a general bulb now. Because Liriope Muscari has those qualities which are necessary for a plant to be widely grown under many conditions, it is difficult to understand why it is so little used, either in the garden or in the house. Pot 3 bulbs into a 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot with John Innes compost in March and April, planting them 1 inch (2.5 cms) below the surface. Water. Thoroughly moisten at planting, and therafter restrict water so as to keep the soil barely moist. Temperature. Immediately after planting, the bulbs should be kept in a cool place with a temperature that does not rise regularly above 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). As soon as the bulbs are established they can be moved to average room conditions, providing that these do not get too hot. Position. In full light and sun, if not exposed to the suns's full heat immediately against the window. |
Muscari |
Liriope muscari, Aizu area, Fukushima pref., Japan 日本語: ヤブラン 福島県会津地方（植栽）. By Qwert1234 via Wikimedia Commons. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pot from August to November, 18-20 small bulbs or 3-5 larger 1 inch (2.5 cms) deep, and 1 inch apart, in a 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot, using John Innes No. 2, or a mixture of 2 parts sandy loam, 1 part leaf-mould, 1 part sand. After potting they should be plunged until growth has started, when they can be brought to a cool, well-lighted window. Warer moderately until after flowering and then dry off the bulbs. Fertilisers. Occasional dose of complete fertiliser, up to flowering. Temperature. 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). |
Armeniacum Botryoides Botryoides Album Comosum (Leopoldia comosa, Tassel Hyacinth) Conicum (Heavenly Blue) Moschatum Flavum (Musk) (Muscari macrocarpum) |
Muscari armeniacum. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons. |
|
Nerine bowdeni (Guernsey Lily, Bowden Lily) |
|
|
|
|
|
Pot either 1 bulb in a 4.5-inch (11.25 cms) pot or 3 in a 6-inch (15 cms) pot during August until November. Plant to a depth so that from a third to a quarter of the bulb remains above soil level. Use either John Innes compost or a mixture of 2 parts sandy loam, 1 part decayed cow-dung and 1 part coarse sand. Water. Iits natural state the Nerine succeeds under completely arid conditions for one half of the year and follows this with a very high water-requirements for the second half. Under house conditions, therefore, it is best to give water in moderate quantities at the first signs of the flower spikes, but during the resting time, from May till September, it should be kept quite dry. Fertilisers. These, in the form of the normal feeding to other bulbs, can be applied with the waterings. Temperature. 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit (7-10 degrees Celsius). Position. When grown in pots, the Nerine is very suitable for porch or conservatory decoration. In the living-room, it should be placed in full light by a south or west window. Flowering. Dependent upon the variety and planting time, it will flower from July to October. But only 1 variety is recommended for general use. Repot. The bulbs may remain in the pots for 3 years before needing repotting. |
Bowdeni Fenwick's Var. |
Nerine bowdenii. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons. |
Oxalis (wood Sorrel)
Oxalis Collection pages with photos |
|
|
|
|
|
These bulbous plants are very suitable for hanging pots, owing to their rather soft and falling growth. Pot winter-flowering kinds in September; spring-flowering kinds in January; summer-flowering kinds in March and April; and autumn-flowering kinds in August. Plat 1 in a 3-inch (7.5 cms) or 6 in 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot at from 0.5 to 0.75 inches (1.25-1-8.75 cms) deep. Their essential needs are good drainage and adequate lime with the potting mixture, which can otherwise be any good friable soil. Water sparingly until growth is about 0.25 inches (6mm) above the soil; thereafter water freely. Relax watering when the flowers begin to fade and keep them quite dry until growth starts again. Fertiliser. Water-in a complete fertiliser as soon as the flower buds begin to form. Temperature. 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit (10-15.5 degrees Celsius). Position. A south window in full light and with maximum sunlight. Resting. When the flowers are over, the bulbs should be allowed to become quite dry and to remain in this state until growth starts again. The general rest period lasts from about 8 to 10 weeks. |
Winter: cernua(is actually Oxalis pes-caprae, Bermuda Buttercup) Spring: rosea (Pink Wood Sorrel)
Summer: hirta (tropical woodsorrel) Deppei (Iron Cross)
Autumn: variabilis Boweina |
Oxalis bowiei Location: Botanical Gardens Berlin. By BotBln via Wikimedia Commons. |
Sternbergia lutea (Winter Daffodil) |
|
|
|
|
|
October-flowering. The blooms, which are Crocus-shaped, are shining yellow on sturdy stems. 6-8 inches (15-20 cms). Prefers dry conditions and maximum sun. Cultivations are as those for Amaryllis:- Pot. The bulbs should be potted in August, 1 in a 5 inch (12.5 cms) pot, and planted so that only 0.33 of the bulb shows above the soil-level. Until the flower stem appears they are best left outside (if possible, in a frame or else in a dark cupboard); at that time they can be brought into the house and a cool room. The leaves grow during the winter months and the flower stems appear when the leaves have died down. Water moderately until leaves turn yellow, when water should be withheld. Freely when flower-buds appear. After flowering, water regularly. Temperature. 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit (10-15.5 degrees Celsius) from the time that the flower stem shows. Repot every 3 years. |
Angustifolia |
Sternbergia lutea, 18 septembre 2004, cultivé. By Jean-Jacques MILAN via Wikimedia Commons. |
Zephyranthes candida (Flower of the West Wind) |
|
|
|
|
|
Pot 1 bulb 2 inches (5 cms) deep in a 5-inch (12.5 cms) pot in August or September. Compost of 2 parts sandy loam with 1 part of equal proportions of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure. Water generously until after flowering, when water must gradually be reduced. During the dormant time the mixture should not be allowed to become too dry. Temperature. Moderate. Position. Full light in south window. Repot. The bulb can remain in the same pot for approximately 2 years. |
candida |
Scientific name: Zephyranthes candida Place:Osaka-fu Japan • 日本語: タマスダレ. By • タマスダレ • 利用者:KENPEI/画像集/植物 via Wikimedia Commons. |
Sauromatum guttatum (Arum cornutum, The Voodoo Lily, Typhonium, Monarch of the East) |
|
|
|
|
|
This plant is noted last because it has only 1 claim to inclusion, which is that it needs neither water nor soil in order to produce stem and flower. It is an easily grown curiosity rather than a beautiful plant and is a tuberous-rooted half-hardy perennial with spathes resembling the Arum. The colours are purple, yellow and green. In Setember or October tubers should be put in a saucer and kept at average room heat without water for from 4 to 5 weeks, when the flower spathe will appear.The height is about 18 inches (45 cms). After flowering the tuber should be planted in a shady, moist spot, where it will come into leaf. The following August it can be lifted, dried off thoroughly, and again brought to flower. This process can be continued indefinitely. If the reader is sufficiently interested to grow 1 or 2 tubers he may some difficulty in obtaining them in 1953, because they are not listed by the usual bulb merchants. They will be found in the catalogues of specialist bulb-growers. |
|
Text Appearing Before Image: 1882.) THE AMERICAN GARDEN. 119 THE ARUM. This genus comprises some of the most cu- rious and interesting- representatives of the vegetable kingdom. Most species are inhab- itants of tropical countries. The roots of many, which, although in the fresli state contain an acrid, milky fluid, are when dried perfectly harmless, and consti- tute important articles of food. Other spe- cies from more northern regions are entirely hardy in our climate, and are easily grown as border plants, requiring not more care than the Gladiolus. Arum Dracunculus.— The Dragon Arum is the best known and most striking of the hardy spe- cies. It is very showy when in bloom, grows several feet high, with a large, blackish-purple flower, and graceful, palm-like leaves. It may also be potted in autumn, in a sandy loam with a portion of peat, and will bloom in spring. Arum ItaUcum is a smaller growing species, with greenish - yellow flowers, and large, lance- shaped leaves, spotted yellow. Arum triphyllum is our native Indian Turnip, or "Jack in the Pulpit." The plant is curious and ornamental, both in flower and berry. It thrives well in deep soil in a shady situation, and often grows very large. Arum cornutum and A. maculatum are also well-known species. consider my pleasure when I saw leaves and flowers from my two lost Aponogeton plants floating on the water in the pond. I made no effort to secure them, but left them there, and they have come up each succeeding year stronger than before. This is the fourth season of their growth in the pond, and now the largest plant had this year thirty-three blossoms amid a clump of some ninety-seven leaves. THE CAPE POND WEED. This most unhappy name is that given to one of the sweetest and best of water plants whose botanical name is Aponogeton distachyon. It is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and, strange though it may seem, it is hardy in Massachusetts also, though it should be the reverse; it is one of the most uncommon plants cultivated in America. For many years I have known it to be pretty hardy, but I should never have trusted it to the mercy of a Boston winter but for the result of an accident. We grow a good many tender water plants, which we stand out in summer on a temporary stage set in a little pond where the water is three to four feet deep. In this pond are many gold-fishes, also several bull-frogs. In 1878, I set out three pots containing Aponogeton, but in the fall I could only find one, fishes or frogs had upset the other two. Next spring, however, Text Appearing After Image: Our pond is lined with brick clay; there is no soil in it, unless it be a small accumulation of muddy sediment; the water is surface I water only. But, although the Aponogeton lias proved so hardy with us, I would not say j it should be hardy if the frost should reach ; its roots. As a house or greenhouse plant the Apon- ogeton is essentially a winter bloomer, be- ginning to grow and blossom in the fall and continuing till spring, when it may show signs of wanting to rest; then you can lay it aside in your cellar for the sum- mer, as you would an ordinary Water Lily for the winter. In the house you can grow it in a milk plate, a pudding-pan, a flower-pot with the hole stopped up, a pail, or other vessel. Fill the vessel half full with turfy loam, plant the root in the middle and about an inch in depth, and over all, to suppress muddi- ness in the water, place a thin layer of coarse sand or fine gravel, then till up with water and keep it full. Just keep it from freezing, warmth is unnecessary ; that is all the care it wants. The root is a little bulb or eorm about as big as a marble. Wm. Falconer. ARUM DRACUNCULUS. The blossoms are pure white, speckled with little clusters of brown anthers, and are produced as a forked spike about three to four inches across; they are as fragrant as Heliotrope. And so early do they appear, that leaves come up and blossoms open in the water underneath the ice, and as the ice leaves the pond, they increase in strength and numbers. During summer they bloom more sparingly than in spring, and they con- tinue to blossom a little throughout the fall. BLUETS. (Hountonia ceerulea.) This elegant indigen- ous plant, which is found wild throughout our Northern and West- ern States, and is well adapted for cultivation, has, like many other native beauties, to go abroad to find recogni- tion. Among the flowers in season in England it is described as: "This gem among diminutive plants, known as Bluets, is flowering well on the rock-work in the Cambridge Botanic Gar- den. Its position is not that which would usually be accorded to it. In- stead of being in a moist corner,where, generally, it is understood to flour- ish best and to be most under natural conditions, it is here, by acci- dent, in the driest and most exposed spot that could be found. It is flourishing, how- ever, and forms a tuft of great neatness and beauty." Lilies are much benefited by mulching during dry, hot weather. Most of our culti- vated species are natives of cool climates and grow naturally in damp localities, where the soil is covered with leaves or grass. . By THE AMERICAN GARDEN via Wikimedia Commons. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
STAGE 2 |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Annual for ----------------
|
Cut Flowers |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Vining Annuals |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bedding Plant Use |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Use in Hanging Baskets |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Flower Simple Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Use in Pots and Troughs |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
|
Use in |
Use in |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
|
Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Hardy Bulbs
|
Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
---------- |
1a. |
1b. |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climber - Elaborated Flower Shape |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Topic |
|
|
|
STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
|
Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
|
Indoor / House Cultivation |
|
Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
|
Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
|
Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
|
|
|
Sun Aspect |
|
|
|
Soil Type |
|
|
|
Soil Moisture |
|
|
|
Position for Plant |
|
Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
|
Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
|
Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
|
1, 2, |
|
|
|
Use of Plant |
|
|
|
STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
|
|
|
Flower Shape |
|
Number of Flower Petals |
|
|
|
Flower Shape - Simple |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Flower Shape - Elaborated |
|
|
|
Natural Arrangements |
|
|
|
STAGE 4D |
|
|
|
|
|
Form |
|
|
|
|
|
STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
|
|
|
STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
|
Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
|
|
|
STAGE 2
|
|
|
|
STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
|
_(18123184896).jpg){kind=link}
.jpg?uselang=en-gb){kind=link}
Copied from |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Copied from |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
||||
Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
||||
Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
|
40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
|
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
|
Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
|
(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
||
Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
|
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Plants used by the Butterflies |
||||
Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
||
Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
||
Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
||
Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
||
Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
|
Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
|
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
|
Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
||
When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
"On average, 2 gardeners a year die in the UK as a result of poisonous plants. Those discussed in this blog illustrate a range of concerns that should be foremost in the designer’s mind." from Pages on poisonous plants in this website:- |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
|
|||||||||||||||
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
||||||
1 |
Blue |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
Cream |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
White A-D |
||||||||||||||||
1 Yellow |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
|||||||||||||||||
1 |
Flowering plants of |
||||||||||||||||
1 |
Flowering plants of |
||||||||||||||||
The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
Private Garden Design:- |
|||||||||||||
|
|
<---- |
Yes |
|
No |
Cannot be bothered. |
|||||||
|
|
At Home with Gard-ening Area |
|
|
Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
|
Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
||||
| |
|
| |
Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
|||||||||
|
| |
Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
| |
||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
| |
|||||||||||||
Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
| |
|||||||||||
You need to know the following:- |
|||||||||||||
A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
|
Human Prob-lems |
|
Blind, |
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
|
||||||||
|
Classic Mixed Style |
|
Cottage Garden Style |
|
. |
|
Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
|||||
|
Mediterranean Style |
|
Meadow and Corn-field |
|
. |
|
Paving and Gravel inland, |
||||||
|
|
|
|
Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
. |
|
Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
|||||
Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
|
. |
|
Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
||||||||
In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
|||||||||||||
Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
||||
After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
|
|
|
||||||||||
Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
|||||||||
Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
|
. |
Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
||||
|
|
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
|
|
|||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
|||||||||||||
Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
||||
Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
||||||||
Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
|||||||||||
Bedding, 25 |
|||||||||||||
Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
|||||||||||||
Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
|||||||||||||
Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
|||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Fern with 706 ferns |
|||||||||||||
1 (o) |
|||||||||||||
Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
||||||||||||
Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
|||||||||||||
Sub-Shrub |
|||||||||||||
Wildflower 1918 with |
|||||||||||||
Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
|||||||||||||
Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
|||||||||||||