Picture Folder Name Pages:-

Since 14 June 2019 I have also started to put my own full-sized 4000 x 3000 digital Camera images into the relevant topics in this website again for use in the Public Domain - since there may be 9 or more to a page the resulting
43 Mb website page may take some time to load. Since I have more than 26,522 photos using 112.83 GB of my disk space, then the extra upfront cost per annum before creating more folders like Photo coleus is just over 3.16 pence per photo has to be paid for the total number in that entire photo collection before any are sent to the website.
It is hoped that you may find them of interest.

Foord garden flower slides Folder of 35mm 'Ektachrome' Transparency slides taken by Ron & Christine Foord of Rochester, Kent in England during the 20th century. Both have been
dead for years and these slides were passed onto Chris Garnons-Williams.

Slides taken by Ron or Christine Foord have been scanned individually and converted by an F22MP 126PK Super 8 Slides & Negatives All-in-1 Film Scanner to JPEGS by Chris Garnons-Williams in the original size and as a thumbnail during 2020-21.

Ron and Christine Foord
Garden Flowers - Pages of all these Galleries
AB1,AC2,AC3,AC4,AC5,
AE6,AG7,AL8,AL9,AL10,
AL11,AM12,AN13,AN14,AN15,
AN16,AN17,AN18,AN19,AQ20,
AR21,AR22,AR23,AR24,AS25,
AR26,
BA27,BE28,BE29,BR30,
CA31,CA32,CA33,CA34,CA35,
CA36,CA37,CH38,CH39,CH40,
CI41,CL42,CL43,CO44,CO45,
CO46,CO47,CO48,CO49,CR50,
CR51,CR52,CR53,CY54,CY55,
CY56,
DA57,DE58,DI59,DI60,
DI61,DO62,DR63,DR64,
ED65,
EL66,EP67,ER68,ER69,ER70,
EU71,
FO72,FR73,FR74,FR75,
FR76,FU77,FU78,
GA79,GE80,
GE81,GE82,GE83,GE84,GE85,
GL86,GL87,

Heather -
Calluna AR88,PE89,
Daboecia BI90,
Erica AR91,CI92,CI93,

HA94,HE95,
HE96,HE97,HE98,HE99,HE100,
HO101,HY102,
IB103,IM104,IR105,
IR106,IR107, 108, 109, 110,
111, 112, 113, 114, 115,
116, 117,

When I have completed the conversion of all the slides from Ron and Christine Foord and inserted a relevant selection of the digitised images into the Photo Garden Flowers Galleries in some months time, then I will complete their text field in the thumbnail row starting with the
letter A (written 11 November 2020).

Number of Colours required to provide a practical means of roughly differentiating between flower colours, foliage colours and bark/stem colours of plants.

Flower Colour:-
These are the 14 Flower Colours for the UK Native Wildflowers:-
Wild Flower with its
flower colour page, space,
Site Map page in its flower colour
NOTE Gallery
...Blue Note
...Brown Note
...Cream Note
...Green Note
...Mauve Note
...Multi-Cols Note
...Orange Note
...Pink A-G Note
...Pink H-Z Note
...Purple Note
...Red Note
...White A-D Note
...White E-P Note
...White Q-Z Note
...Yellow A-G Note
...Yellow H-Z Note
...Shrub/Tree Note

There are 53 flower colours for All Flowers Colour Wheel and Rock Plant Flowers:-
Dark Tone or Shades (Colours mixed with Black) is the outer circle of colours.
Mid-Tone (Colours mixed with Grey) is the next circle of colours.
Pure Hue (the Primary, Secondary or Tertiary Colour named) is the next circle of colours.
Pastel (Colours mixed with White) is the innermost circle of colours.

These 12 colour spokes of
Dark Tone,
Mid-Tone,
Pure Hue and
Pastel are split into:-

Dark tone, mid-tone, pure hue followed by pastel colour:-

1. blood red, fuzzy wuzzy, red, flat pink.
2. chocolate, heatland, orange, orangelin.
3. rusty pelican, tuscany, vitamin c, atomic tangerine.
4. browser caramel, buddha gold, tangerine, sand.
5. grass stain, pine glade, yellow, bone.
6. verdun green, slimer 2, lovely lime, limeade.
7. pakistan green, weak green, lime, offwhite green.
8. blue stone, aqua, light teal, baby blue.
9. navy blue, periwinkle, blue, offwhite blue.
10. violet, the bands, grape, mauve.
11. royal purple, calihoe, magenta, magenta shift.
12. dried blood, forbidden, process pagenta, pink.
13. white, white wildflower, gray, silver, black

There are 7 flower colours:-
blue, white, yellow, unusual, and red, pink or purple as in the Bulb gallery.

These are the 12 flower colours for Flower in Month and Bee-Pollinated Plants:-
red, pink, white, cream, mauve, purple, blue, yellow, brown, green, orange and unusual or multi-coloured.

Foliage Colour:-
I have created a Foliage Colour Wheel - All Foliage 212 - using 212 web-safe colours. My 212 web-safe colours just do not cut the mustard.
This is instead of using the best Colour Wheel of 2058 colours in the Pantone Goe System, but this link no longer connects to Pantone. So perhaps the Pantone Goe System is no longer sold or maintained.

So as from 18 January 2021, I have decided to use the 53 colours of All Flowers Colour Wheel and Rock Plant Flowers above for the flowers and the foliage in the future combined with the 14 Flower Colours for the UK Native Wildflowers Wild Flower for the UK Wildflowers. I also intend to put the required plant into the respective pages of the Plant Colour Wheel Uses Gallery.
This makes for a practical number of flower and foliage colours for use in the horticultural environment.

List of Pictures in a Picture Folder:-

Ron & Christine Foord took many photos of wildflower plants and stored them as Kodak 'Kodachrome' Transparency 35mm slides in the 1960-90s as well as these 10,000 of Garden Flowers. If they used other film, then the colour on the slides became sepia over a few years, whereas this did not occur with Kodachrome. The green perhaps got darker over a 50 year period. I am adding these scanned slides to my photos for sending to my website for use in the Public Domain starting in February 2020.
 

Page 74

Fritillaria crassifolia 1 5 71
PICT01988.JPG

Fritillaria crassifolia May 72
PICT01986.JPG

Fritillaria crassifolia May 72
PICT01989.JPG

Fritillaria gracilis May 72
PICT01991.JPG

Fritillaria gracilis 1 5 71
PICT01992.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis Crown Imperial
PICT02017.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis Crown Imperial
PICT02014.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis lutea May 81
PICT02002.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis lutea May 81
PICT02001.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis lutea May 85
PICT01997.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis lutea 07 85 Seed
PICT02011.JPG

Page 75

Fritillaria imperialis rubra maxima
PICT02015.JPG

Fritillaria imperialis rubra maxima
PICT02019.JPG

Fritillaria michailovskyi
PICT02021.JPG

Fritillaria michailovskyi
PICT02027.JPG

Fritillaria michailovskyi
PICT02024.JPG

Fritillaria pallidiflora
PICT02028.JPG

Fritillaria pallidiflora
PICT02030.JPG

Fritillaria persica
PICT02035.JPG

Fritillaria persica
PICT02034.JPG

Fritillaria persica
PICT02033.JPG

Fritillaria persica Apr 85
PICT02037.JPG

Page 76

Fritillaria pontica
PICT02040.JPG

Fritillaria pontica
PICT02039.JPG

Fritillaria pyrenaica 28 4 68
PICT02042.JPG

Fritillaria seed pods
PICT01930.JPG

Fritillaria seed pod
PICT01929.JPG

Fuchsia 'Abbe Farge' Sep 85
PICT02049.JPG

Fuchsia 'Abbe Farge' Sep 85
PICT02048.JPG

Fuchsia 'Constance' Sep 85
PICT02054.JPG

Fuchsia 'Constance' Sep 85
PICT02050.JPG

Fuchsia 'Flash' Sep 85
PICT02058.JPG

Fuchsia 'Flash' Sep 85
PICT02055.JPG

Page 77

Fuchsia 'General Monk' Sep 85
PICT02059.JPG

Fuchsia 'General Monk' Sep 85
PICT02060.JPG

Fuchsia 'Lady Thumb' Sep 85
PICT02076.JPG

Fuchsia magellanica Sep 85
PICT02065.JPG

Fuchsia magellanica Sep 85
PICT02066.JPG

Fuchsia magellanica 18 6 66
PICT02064.JPG

Fuchsia magellanica 'Alba' Oct 78
in Sissinghurst Castle Garden
PICT02063.JPG

Fuchsia microphylla Mar 65 at Kew
origin from Mexico
PICT02068.JPG

Fuchsia 'Mrs Popple' Sep 85
PICT02069.JPG

Fuchsia 'Tom Thumb' Sep 85
PICT02078.JPG

Fuchsia - standard fuchsia
PICT02046.JPG

Page 78

Fulcus corrifera May 70
PICT02043.JPG

Gagea fisculosa 15 5 71
PICT02081.JPG

Gagea lutea 15 5 71 in Leichenstein
PICT02082.JPG

Gagea lutea 14 5 71
Furstensteig in Leichenstein
PICT02088.JPG

Gagea lutea 15 5 71
Furstensteig in Leichenstein
PICT02086.JPG

Gagea minima 15 5 71 in Leichenstein
PICT02090.JPG

Gagea minima 14 5 71 in Leichenstein
PICT02091.JPG

Galanthus elwesii Snowdrop
PICT02099.JPG

Galanthus elwesii 2 90
Snowdrops in Leeds churchyard in Kent
PICT02102.JPG

Galanthus elwesii Apr 70
Snowdrops in snow
PICT02094.JPG

Galanthus nivalis
PICT02096.JPG

Page 79

Galtonia viridiflora 08 88
PICT02113.JPG

Galtonia viridiflora 08 88
PICT02114.JPG

Galtonia viridiflora
PICT02117.JPG

Galtonia candicans Aug 79
PICT02104.JPG

Galtonia candicans Aug 79
PICT02105.JPG

Gaultheria shallon Sep 79
PICT02118.JPG

Genista cinerea Jun 82 Broom
PICT02120.JPG

Genista pilosa May 71
PICT02127.JPG

Genista pilosa Jun 71
PICT02130.JPG

Genista pilosa 06 89
PICT02138.JPG

Genista pilosa Jun 72
PICT02129.JPG

Page 80

Genista lydia Jun 78
PICT02124.JPG

Genista lydia Jul 71
PICT02121.JPG

Genista lydia Nov 75
PICT02125.JPG

Genista sagittalis var delphinensis
Jul 71
PICT02140.JPG

Gentiana acaulis May 78
PICT02141.JPG

Gentiana acaulis 12 12 70
PICT02160.JPG

Gentiana acaulis 23 5 70 Wisley
PICT02149.JPG

Gentiana asclepiadea Sep 78
Willow Gentian
PICT02165.JPG

Gentiana asclepiadea Sep 78
Willow Gentian
PICT02168.JPG

Gentiana asclepiadea Sep 70
PICT02173.JPG

Gentiana brachyphylla 15 7 64
Short-leaved Gentian
in Einodsbach of Austria
PICT02177.JPG

Page 81

Gentiana bavarica 13 7 64
Klein walsertal in Austria
PICT02176.JPG

Gentiana bavarica 13 7 64
Klein walsertal in Austria
PICT02174.JPG

Gentiana bavarica 13 7 64
Klein walsertal in Austria
PICT02175.JPG

Gentiana clusii 14 5 71
in Liechenstein
PICT02193.JPG

Gentiana clusii 14 5 71
in Liechenstein
PICT02191.JPG

Gentiana clusii May 71
Trumpet Gentians
in Gaflei in Liechenstein
PICT02185.JPG

Gentiana dahurica Jul 73
PICT02197.JPG

Gentiana dahurica Jul 73
PICT02200.JPG

Gentiana dahurica Jul 73
PICT02199.JPG

Gentiana kochiana 10 5 71
Liechenstein
PICT02223.JPG

Gentiana kochiana 16 5 71
Liechenstein
PICT02215.JPG

Page 82

Gentiana kochiana 16 5 71
Liechenstein
PICT02232.JPG

Gentiana lutea 07 85
PICT02240.JPG

Gentiana lutea 07 85
PICT02244.JPG

Gentiana lutea 16 7 64
Yellow Gentian
in Hittelberg of Austria
PICT02242.JPG

Gentiana saxosa Sep 71
PICT02254.JPG

Gentiana saxosa Aug 71
PICT02253.JPG

Gentiana saxosa Aug 71
PICT02250.JPG

Gentiana septemfida Aug 79
PICT02261.JPG

Gentiana septemfida Aug 79
PICT02259.JPG

Gentiana sino-ornata 09 89
PICT02264.JPG

Gentiana verna 12 5 71
Gaflei in Liechtenstein
PICT02276.JPG

Page 83

Gentiana verna May 71
Small Gentian in
Triesenburg in Liechtenstein
PICT02279.JPG

Gentiana verna 15 5 71
in Liechtenstein
PICT02271.JPG

Gentiana verna 16 5 71
PICT02278.JPG

Gentiana verna 15 5 71
in Liechtenstein
PICT02266.JPG

Geranium cinereum 'Ballerina'
Jun 73
PICT02291.JPG

Geranium cinereum 'Ballerina' 07 85
PICT02295.JPG

Geranium cinereum 'Ballerina'
PICT02293.JPG

Geranium dalmanicum Jun 93
PICT02298.JPG

Geranium delavayi Oct 70
Wasp on this
PICT02307.JPG

Geranium delavayi Oct 71
PICT02308.JPG

Geranium delavayi Oct 71
PICT02310.JPG

Page 84

Geranium farreri (nepaligerum) Jun 71
PICT02316.JPG

Geranium maas 07 85
PICT02315.JPG

Geranium phaeum 23 5 70 Wisley
PICT02318.JPG

Geranium phaeum 23 5 70 Wisley
PICT02319.JPG

Geranium psilostemon
syn Geranium armenum Jul 72
PICT02320.JPG

Geranium renardii 06 91
PICT02324.JPG

Geranium renardii Jun 70
PICT02322.JPG

Geranium renardii Jun 71
PICT02323.JPG

Geranium sanguineum
lancastriense Jun 69
PICT02330.JPG

Geranium sanguineum
lancastriense
PICT02329.JPG

Geranium sanguineum
lancastriense Jul 69
PICT02327.JPG

Plant Labelling - A suggestion for plant labelling to help visitors

A different solution is that each gardening member of the RHS staff at Wisley be provided with Large White Plastic Angled-Head Labels which are 20 inches (50 cms) in height with a 6 x 4 inch (16 x 10 cms) writing surface and a Marker pen with Black ink to provide a good temporary label for the above broken label (in Lost Flowers page) or for missing labels.
Then, the black background permanent label could be ordered at the end of that working day to replace this temporary label, which has been inserted into the ground in front of the relevant plant section.

If you are concerned about these labels going on "Walkabout", then insert another white label behind the plant and make it invisible to the public.

Site design and content copyright ©December 2020.
Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a
courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are
not responsible for the content and/or quality of external
web sites linked from this site.  

Picture Folder Name Pages:-

Damage to Trees in Pavement in Madeira caused by the action of man during January/February 2019.

Solution to holes in trees.
Remove mesh covers and rot within the hole. Then blast the remaining rot with a high pressure water hose to try and clear more of the rot. Spray with Boron (a water based preservative kills only wood boring insects - not spiders, birds or bats) as a treatment for insect, wet and dry rot attack. While it is still wet, apply a layer of Expanding Foam to the bottom of the hole. Immediately place bottles on this 
and allow to set for 5 minutes. Apply another layer of expanding foam and another layer of bottles. The aim of the bottles is to occupy space, they are not there as a deterrent. That is why the foam has to be in contact with the inside of the tree not the glass bottle. The poisons in the foam will kill anything eating it and the foam does stick better when wet with water. Keep up this operation until the hole is covered. 
Leave to set and then paint the foam surface twice with a recommended water-based, but not oil-based, sealant.

Solutions to stop creating holes in trees.
When a branch is cut off, remember to cut it off on the other side of the Branch Collar. (See Figure 1 - Optimum position of the final pruning cut in "Guide to Tree Pruning" by the Arboricultural Association which shows the branch collar within and outside the tree. My Comments: I disagree with their recommendation not to apply wound paint as you can see the result if you do not paint trees which are dehydrated, starved and gassed as these trees in the pavements of Madeira are.) 
Once that is done, then immediately apply Boron and 2 coats of protective sealant as used for holes in trees above.

Solution to current problem on these mosaic pavements:-
Carefully remove the existing marble mosaic, concrete, tarmac, or paver and 
the concrete/metal enclosures round the trees. If any further solid material like gravel, bricks, stones etc can be removed as well, then do so. Level the ground with sharp sand (Sharp sand is like pyramids which lock together, builder's sand is like ball bearings which displaces itself elsewhere if it can when downward pressure is applied to it). 
The time to execute the above and complete the refilling with sharp sand must 
be completed within 20 minutes, otherwise the exposed roots will dry up and die. 
It is useful to now water it to settle the sand and keep the roots wet. Put the roll 
of continuous geotextile over the top before laying down the CEDAdrive slabs on 
top. Fill the slabs with the required colours of marble pea-shingle and leave a 
3 inch (7.5 cm) gap between the trunk and the CEDAdrive section (Besides black 
and white marble, you can get many other colours). Spead Green Manure seed in 
the gap and cover to the same level as the top of the CEDAdrive with its pea-shingle; 
with sharp sand. The Green manure will provide a little nourishment for the tree 
and protection for the expanding trunk, together with protection from cigarettes. 
Further protection can be carried out by providing seating round the trunk, so that 
old fogeys like me can rest.
Pop-up irrigation water pipes can be supplied from these water manholes currently in the pavements and they can be set to irrigate each section in rotation from 
Midnight to 06:00 in the morning. A dissolved mixture of seaweed, fully composted animal waste and fully worm composted human food waste from restaurants/hotels can be applied over a pavement an hour before that section is irrigated 3 times a year to provide the same fertilizer regime as practised by the gardeners at the Pestana Mirimar for that hotel's garden. The drained solids from the above fertilizer solution can be applied over the sand between the tree and the CEDAdrive.
An alternative to using marble pea-shingle is Topmix Permeable Concrete within the CEDAdrive slabs. This would perform the same function as the marble pea-shingle, but it may be cheaper and quicker to use in other pavements. The depth of the Cedadrive slabs might have to be increased if traffic is allowed to cross or park on this type of pavement surface.

166 trees in the pavements in a short section of a road in Funchal, Madeira are being slowly, starved, dehydrated, asphyxiated, poisoned by tarmac and concrete, burnt inside their hollow trunks, roots pounded by 40 ton lorries or shoes of pedestrians, and allowed to rot until killed off during February 2019 (see information in Problems with trees in pavements in Funchal, Madeira in January/February 2018 Page, which appears to have had no effect) as shown by my 433 photos in the following pages within the Home Topic:-

• Death of tree roots and
• Death of tree trunks/branches caused by people.
• Solution to problems for trees caused by people using irrigation -
  Growth of Pollarded Tree in Hotel Garden in 1 year provides a water solution to this destruction.
• Damage to Tree Trunks 1, 2, 3, 4 caused by people,
• Damage to Tree Roots caused by people,
• Area of Open Ground round trees,
• New Trees in pavements 1, 2,
• Irrigation of current trees,
• Watersprouts on trees,
• Crossing Branches in trees,
• Utility Equipment with tree Foliage,
• Lights on trees,
• Bycycle Lane in Pavement,
• Public Gardens alongside pavements,
• Hotel/Private Gardens alongside pavements,
• Current Permeable Pavement Surface round trees and
• Irrigation and Fertilising of trees.

Articles on

• Branch Collar (see Solutions to stop creating holes in trees above) and the importance of leaving all of it while cutting off that branch
• My repair to a 1300 year old yew tree in my church at the bottom of pages 1-12
• Some of my work on trees using a chainsaw and chipper-shredder on page 13
• Protective Dressing, Cavities and 'do not use plastic twine or wire to tie a plant' are at the bottom of pages 14-25 with Forked Leaders, also Terminal Bud and Dormant Branch Growth Bud.
  Details on Boron woodworm, wet and dry wood rot treatment on Page 16.
• Ways to install trees at the bottom of pages 26-37 includes the following on watering - "Throughout the warm, summer weather, the tree will need the equivalent of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain per week and this water needs to be applied about twice each week (My Comments - since this is over the entire root area of this tree - which is at least the radius from the trunk of the height of the tree - then if the CEDAdrive slabs are used, apply 0.5 inchs (1.25 cms) of irrigation twice a week to that entire area).  Approximately 5-10 gallons (20 – 40 liters) of water is sufficient to moisten a 20-inch (50 cm) diameter root ball.  A 40-inch (100 cm) diameter root ball has more than twice the volume and would require 35-45 gallons (130 – 170 liters). 
  Another way to measure water need is with the following formula:   The tree needs 5 gallons minimum and 5 additional gallons per inch of diameter (DBH); hence a 3 inch DBH tree needs 20 gallons of water per week to equal 1 inch of rainfall, in other words, 5 gallons minimum + (3 X 5) 15 gallons = 20 gallons."
• The Pruning and Maintenance of Mature Trees:
  • 'Lifting' or the removal of the lower branch systems,
  • Crown Thinning and
  • Crown Reduction
  • at the bottom of
    pages 38-45
• Explaination of watersprouts and watershoots in the Watersprouts on Trees in Pavements in Funchal, Madeira Page. These should be removed from the trees since they are weakly joined to the branch/trunk from which they originated and are dangerous to use as supports for electricians or tree surgeons; as well as likely to fall down in a storm.

The day after I arrived in Funchal in January 2020, I spoke to Rita in Owner Relations and she sent an email. Not knowing about the efficiency of the local or main government, I spoke to the reception staff and they told me that Funchal was a Municipality with its own local government with its offices in Funchal. So I took the bus into town and went round the Municipality Offices until I was escorted to a building where you could ask questions in the A group pay bills in the B group and do something else in the C group. Speaking to an official in the A group, I managed to convince him that I had more details about the tree problems on my website, so as to overcome his response of getting me to send an email. He presented a piece of paper with Eng Francisco Andrade, Est. Marmeiros, No 1, Jardins & Espaces Verdes on it. I handed this to a taxi driver and arrived. I spoke with an english-speaking colleague of his and then he very kindly agreed to talk to me with his english-speaking colleague:-

• He stated that the local policy was not to apply any wound sealant since diseases, etc could get under it and cause further damage. He asked me if I had any literature to back up my use of black water-based masonry paint (instead of Arbrex, which I had started to use, but I doubted whether my clients would see the point of the expense) and I could not present him with any. Nor could I present any literature to support my use of expanding foam with bottles to fill the hole, since my work on the yew tree in the graveyard of St Margarets Church in Rainham had revised their website and the article about that tree had not yet been transposed.
• He pointed out that he had employed one of the 6 tree experts from September 2019 to monitor the trees in the pavements. Each tree was tagged with a black plastic disc with a screw through its middle into the tree about 3 metres from the ground. The disc had Funchal and a 5 figure number on it. The location of the tree would then be identified on a town map and details of type of tree, which country it originated in, etc would then probably appear in a catalogue. I was not told when his report about the trees was expected and presumably what if any action to take.
• I asked about the burnt insides of damaged trees and was told the people used them as waste bins and presumbably if a lighted cigarette was thrown then it woul start the fire and burn the heartwood as well as the rot. Metal grids were attached to try and stop the practice of using the cavities as waste bins, some of which have rusted away.
• Then we looked at the start of the raw camera images and the one of the gardener with the strimmer to cut the long grass in a public area, I pointed out the problem that grass could absorb a great deal of water each week and leave the ground underneath bone dry with the literature to support that.
  I suggested the replacement of grass/lawn with legumes like green manure would stop the tree roots from being too dry, that the legumes have symbiotic nitrogen-fixing bacteria in structures called root nodules. When a legume plant dies in the field, for example following the harvest, all of its remaining nitrogen, incorporated into amino acids inside the remaining plant parts, is released back into the soil. In the soil, the amino acids are converted to nitrate (NO−3), making the nitrogen available to other plants, thereby serving as fertilizer for future crops.
  If the legumes as green manure are used in between shrubs/bedding/perennials then the ground would not dry out so quickly, so saving water and providing future fertilizer for those other plants.
• When I touched on the subject of CEDAdrive, he did point out that it might be too expensive to implement and was not sure whether it would be suitable for pavements where vehicles would go over them (even though they will take 400 tonnes per square metre).
• With electricity cables running through the roots of trees, the electromagnetic field is high and does it affect the tree roots in a very small space, the same way as for humans? Pedestrians between these trees will be exposed to almost the same electromagnetic field for the length of their walk. Maybe putting the electricity cables under the centre of the road would be safer.
• I thanked them for their time and found a bus stop to get back into Funchal town centre.

The population of Funchal is 111,892.
The population of Madeira is estimated at 244,286 in 2017.
The population of Medway as measured in the 2001 Census was 249,488 of which 99,773 live in Gillingham area which includes Rainham where I live.

No wonder that Cedadrive is expensive for such a small population. So, what can they use that is produced in Madeira, since the transport cost of a container from Portugal is 2000 euros (that figure was given me by an employee of a large builder's merchant, and I saw 2 containers being unloaded at their yard, which were not large ones).

So I took a taxi to a builders merchant (might be Ferreirae in the upper regions of Funchal).

• They did not sell or know what pea-shingle was. This is what I would have filled the CEDAdrive with.
• The original mosaic pavements in Funchal were covered in small black basalt and white limestone cobbles. The limestone comes from Portugal. The black basalt is mined in Madeira and the email address of a local stone quarry is geral@ferreiraebrum.pt
  The english-speaking employee showed me a 25kg bag of basalt of probably 20mm rocks which could be dropped 200cms without breaking. Another bag of probably 2mm rocks, which was added to cement to make it a stronger concrete. Both came from a local mine.
• Madeira has black volcanic sand on its beaches.

So, if the local basalt mine created 10mm x 10mm rocks, these could be used as spacers:-

• If you start with the concrete pavers, then remove them and put down a depth of 2 inches (5 cms) black sand, cover that with a weed control fabric, then relay the pavers with a 10mm x 10mm spacer on each of the 2 shortest sides and 2 on the 2 longest sides, then fill the gap with the black sand.
• The created excess of concrete pavers could then be used in a 200cm radius round each tree using the same system as above to replace the solid concrete or tarmac in that area.
• The same system could be used on the mosaic pavements in replacing the concrete pointing with the black sand and spacers. If the system is not solidified sufficiently then replace the pointing black sand with the 2mm basalt, which would then lock together.
• Carry out the required irrigation and natural fertiliser system as I have already recommended to provide the water and the humus required by the bacterium to continue rebuilding the soil and providing for the gaseous exchange by the roots in either the whole pavement if it is lined with trees or groups of 3 -5 trees, which can help each other in later years as shown in The Hidden Life of Trees by Peter Wohlleben ISBN 978-0-00-821843-0.

If you use boron from colemanite (The use of ores like colemanite has declined following concerns over arsenic content) and mix it with the black sand and seawater to fill the bottom section of cavities, it will kill off the rot in the trunk and stop the cavity being filled with waste. The arsenic will also stop ants from eating it. Then mix it with wallpaper paste to fill the top half of the cavity and you have sorted the cavity problem.

Painting the cut ends with the boron prevents the end from rotting (Boric acid is more toxic to insects than to mammals, and is routinely used as an insecticide).

I had forgotten that I did have the supporting literature about wound dressings (as used in my year at Hadlow College to get a HNC in Horticulture) in this course book:-
"Pages 6-7 of The Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers by
George E. Brown.
ISBN 0-571-11084-3"

It is unfortunate that with all the other responsibilities that the Funchal Municipality has that they will find it very difficult to locate the finance, resources or personnel to carry out whatever remedial work to over 3000 trees being monitored since September 2019 that the Tree Expert from Portugal recommends, especially if someone continues to remove the identity discs.

If concrete paving is the only option, then why do you not use a Sustainable Drainage System like Marshall Priora as the UK's most popular permeable block paving (CBPP) system as detailed on Permeable Paving & Suds Page of Marshalls? Combine this paver with my other ideas and you could have tree-lined streets with healthy trees throughout the world. This would:-

• increase the value of the buildings alongside,
• reduce crime,
• increase contentment in the human population using these pavements
• as well as reduce the carbon dioxide levels
   

Coleus Bedding Foliage Trial Folder
from Plant Trials Field in RHS Garden
at Wisley taken on
2 October 2013
1, plus Tables of Annuals with/for:-
2, Blue to Purple Flowers
3, Red to Pink Flowers 1, 2
4, Green Flowers
5, Black or Brown Flowers
6, Yellow, and Orange Flowers
7, White Flowers
8,
9, Low-Growing
10,
11, Medium-Growing
12, Tall-Growing
13, Heat-Tolerant
14, Moist Soil
15, Shade
16, Indoors
17, Cutting
18, Naturalize
19, Decorative Foliage
20, Edging
21, Fragrance
22, Hanging Baskets
23, Vining
24, Wildflower Meadows
25, Coastal Gardens
26, Mounded Habit
27, Erect Habit
28, Clump-Forming Habit
29, Compact/Bushy Habit
30, Spreading/Sprawling Habit
31, To Cover Fences
32, Odds and Sods 1, 2
Coleus Bedding Trial Index
Range, Culture and Description Details of each of the above are within
Essential Annuals The 100 best for Design and Cultivation.
Text by Elizabeth Murray. Photography by Derek Fell.
Published by Crescent Books in 1989. ISBN 0-517-66177-2

Bedding Gallery has
other bedding plants, in their
flower colour,
flower shape and
bedding plant use
pages.

Topic - Flower/Foliage Colour
Colour Wheel Galleries
Following your choice using Garden Style then that changes your Plant Selection Process
Garden Style
...Infill Plants
...12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...12 Foliage Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index
...Cultivation, Position, Use Index
...Shape, Form
Index
Further details on Bedding from the Infill Plants Galleries of the above topic:-
...for Spring
...for Summer
...for Autumn
...for Winter
...for Sandy Soil
...for Acid Soil
...for Chalky Soil
...for Clay Soil
...Flower Colour:-
......Black
......Blue
......Orange
......Pink
......Purple
......Red
......White
......Yellow
......Multi-coloured
...Use of Bedding:-
......Aromatic Fol
......Scented Flo
......Long Flo
......Coloured Fol
......for Bees, etc
......Cut Flos
......Hanging Pot
......Pots/ Troughs
......Screening
......Window Box
......Bedding Out
......Filling in
Further details on Annuals from the Infill Galleries:-
Uses of Annuals
...Exposed Sites
...Sheltered Sites
...in Greenhouse
...Extra Poor Soil
...Very Rich Soil
...Gap Filling
...Patio Pots
...Cut Flowers 1, 2
...Everlasting Flos
...Attract Insects
...with Fragrance
...Bee Pollinated
...Annual Pairing
...Low-Growing
...Med-Growing
...Tall Growing
...Flower Colour:-
......Black/Brown
......Blue-Purple
......Green
......Red-Pink
......White
......Yellow/Orange
...for its Foliage
...in Moist Soil
...in Shade
...as Houseplants
...Edging Beds
...Hanging Basket
...Vining Annuals

Ivydene Gardens Photo Garden Flowers 7 Gallery:
Page 79 has photos from the Foord garden flower slides Folder of 35mm 'Ektachrome'
Transparency slides taken by Ron & Christine Foord of Rochester, Kent in England
during the 20th century. Both have been dead for years and these slides were passed
onto Chris Garnons-Williams. These slides have been converted by an F22MP 126PK
Super 8 Slides & Negatives All-in-1 Film Scanner to JPEGS by Chris Garnons-Williams
in the original size and as a thumbnail during 2020. These can used in the Public Domain
for educational purposes in schools, or at home.

Row 1 has the Pass-Through Camera image of Thumbnail image named in Row 2
and is usually 4000 x 3000 pixels.

Row 2 has same image reduced to fit the image frame of 160 x 120 pixels as a
Passthrough Thumbnail to show all of the Camera Image. This image has been
reduced to 72 pixels per inch by Freeway before I stored it as a Passthrough image
for use both here (from August 2019) and as the image in
Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens A 1 Gallery.

Click on either image and drag to your desktop.
Then you can crop the Pass-Through Camera image to obtain the particular detail
that you require from that image, before using that cropped result in your endeavour.

Copying the pages and then clicking on the images to drag them may not work.

Galtonia viridiflora 08 88
PICT02113.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Galtonia viridiflora 08 88
PICT02114.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Galtonia viridiflora
PICT02117.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Galtonia candicans Aug 79
PICT02104.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Galtonia candicans Aug 79
PICT02105.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Gaultheria shallon Sep 79
PICT02118.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Genista cinerea Jun 82 Broom
PICT02120.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Genista pilosa May 71
PICT02127.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Genista pilosa Jun 71
PICT02130.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Genista pilosa 06 89
PICT02138.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Genista pilosa Jun 72
PICT02129.JPG
taken by Ron or Christine Foord

Problems for Houseowners and Builders when the new home is surrounded clay and how to solve
them from Case 3 - Drive Foundations in Clay Page.

8 problems caused by clay:-

• In creating a new driveway for a client you can see (from the above photo) that when it
  rains, that the indentations in the clay caused by my boots do fill with water and then
  that water does not drain away.
  Solution -
  Had I installed a soakaway under the drive or elsewhere in the back garden below the drive,
  then it would have filled with water and not drained.
  If the ground is clay, then that soakaway will fill and never empty. In that case if you create
  that soakaway as a continuous one about 2 feet away from the boundary with it starting
  3 feet from house and continuing round to meet the entrance of the drive, then planting
  privet or yew evergreen hedge in that 2 feet gap between it and the boundary will absorb
  the water from that driveway. The 2 feet depth of existing clay soil between that extended
  soakaway and the boundary should be replaced by the following mixture of 1 part existing
  soil and 1 part sand to provide a soil where the soakaway water can move from the
  soakaway through the soil to the hedge roots. The french drain used to transport the
  water should be surrounded by 4 inches of coarse pea-shingle inside an envelope of
  geotextile to stop that pea-shingle from mixing with the mixed soil.
• The same happened to a client's house, which subsided after 6 years from being built.
  The builder had run out of top soil and instead of putting sand as the rest of the back
  garden was composed of where it had been growing a forest, they put 24 inches (60 cms)
  of blue clay the full width of the back of the house which sloped up and met the upward
  sloping lawn laid by the builders. The lawn prevented much of the rainwater from
  entering the sand underneath and thus draining away and ended up on the 144 inch (360 cms)
  wide slabbed patio before hitting the house wall and soaking into the blue clay below the
  slabs. Clay can absorb 40% of its own volume before it turns from a solid to a liquid. When
  the clay absorbs the water, then the suction on the housewall is sufficient to raise that wall.
  When it dries out then the wall subsides and so it subsided. The 6th photo down the
  Case 3a Clay on Sand Subsidence of New House Page shows the blue clay as the dark section
  at the top of the trench with the sand being dark yellow below it.
  Solution 1 -
  Instead of the patio sloping up the back garden, I installed a concrete foundation for a
  conservatory with the concrete going 12 inches (30 cms) deeper than the 24 depth of
  blue clay. Then, the foundation for the new Path/Patio at the back of the house was sloped
  away from the house at 1:40 and the rain drained to the Gully, thence to the Sump in the
  middle of the garden. I then bought a powerful Cultivator Tiller and rotovated the back lawn.
  Using an asphalt rake and a spade with wheelbarrow; I then levelled the remaining back
  garden lawn in both directions, with the conservatory/path areas sloping away from the
  house to allow rainwater to be collected and taken to the sump, instead of causing further
  damage to the house. The levelled lawn then needed a Patio wall to stop the earth from
  being unsurported. A builder than built the conservatory, the restraining patio wall and
  the new path/patio.
  Solution 2 -
  If that area of blue clay had been surrounded by the Aquadyne Drainage System (details
  at bottom of this page) by the original builders to a 36 inches depth, then the problem
  would never have arisen as all the rainwater would have been transferred to the
  surrounding sand soil and the underlying sand. Thus the suction power of the clay would
  have been on the Aquadyne and not the house wall. Since the Aquadyne is plastic it
  would if it moved up and down and not taken the house wall with it.
• There are other factors causing Subsidence of Buildings, especially Tree Roots in Clay
  Soils.
• I spent some months maintaining the grounds within 5 acres of a new Care Home. The
  previous use for these 5 acres had been as a boys school. This had been demolished and
• the rubble then built on for the 5 new residential Care Buildings with its Administration/Kitchen
  Building. 5000 shrubs and trees were planted and at the end of the first year, I audited what
  remained - 2000 out those 5000 had died. The builders had generously added a 2 inches (5 cm)
  depth of topsoil before planting into that and the rubble under it.
  Solution -
  I bought an American Super Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder and shredded the tree/shrub
  prunings during the winter and applied the shreddings as a mulch in the further beds on
  the 5 acre estate during the winter to provide nutrients for the surviving plant.
  I did suggest putting a 4 inch mulch of bark on top of the ground in the beds at a trifling
  cost of £19,000, since digging up the plants and transfering them to a nursery bed, before
  excaving a further 12 inches (30 cm) and replacing the 14 inch (35 cm) depth with good
  soil mixed with manure; and then its plants; would have been extremely time consuming
  and expensive. This money was not forthcoming, so when I started cutting the lawns, I
  added the mowings to the beds as a mulch. I was told that this was unsightly and to stop
  doing that - at this point I resigned since the contract for the original planting only included
  making up the losses in the first year, I could not see that many of the plants would
  survive in the succeeding years.
  You need a minimum of a spade depth of at least 8 inches (20 cms) of topsoil with a 4 inch
  mulch of bark or spent mushroom compost surrounding each plant after the planting, plus
  an irrigation system - that means 12 inches below the top of the bed edging, so that the
  mulch does not flow out onto the lawn, patio, drive or paths after it has been laid.
• In maintaining a client's lawn, I found that after rain that their lawn was squelchy. The lawn
  was laid on a clay topsoil.
  Solution-
  I mowed the lawn quite low and applied Top Dressing at the recommended rate. I repeated
  this twice more once a month. After that, the problem was sorted.
• I received this from a client - An unsuccessful planting scheme had left bare areas of garden
  as plants failed to survive winter in the waterlogged clay soil. The loss of numerous plants
  and the cost of replacing them had left us disheartened.
  Solution -
  A 150mm (6 inch) deep mulch of mixed peat, sharp washed sand and horticultural grit was
  applied on top of a heavy clay soil to improve its structure, and stop the plants therein from
  drowning, at £10 a square metre. The mix was:
  • 4 cubic metres of Peat (to provide the Organic Polymers/Organic Matter and Carbon.)
  • 2 cubic metres of Sharp Washed Sand (to provide the sand for the production of
    microaggregates)
  • 2 cubic metres of Horticultural Grit (to provide larger particles for aggregation)
  • 25kg of Garden Lime (to provide Calcium for the plants and allow clay minerals to
    bond together to form domains. Once clay minerals are stacked together to form
    domains, they can then bond with organic matter to form microaggregates)
  • 25 kg of Sulphate of Iron (to provide Iron to act as a trace element and to create
    soil colloid for buffering chemical nutrients in the soil for later use by plants)
  • 25Kg of Sulphate of Potash ( to provide fertilizer for the plants)
    
    and the following was sent to me in October 2004:- An unsuccessful planting scheme
    had left bare areas of garden as plants failed to survive winter in the waterlogged
    clay soil. The loss of numerous plants and the cost of replacing them had left us
    disheartened. It was evident that remedial action was needed in the form of a
    mixture of gravel, sand and peat to create an organic loam. Approximately six inches
    was added in April and left to settle and do its job. By July there was a noticeable
    difference in the quality of the soil and the plants. Shrubs with sparse, mottled
    leaves were looking glossy and robust, overall growth had increased (including
    the weeds!) and the soil was holding its moisture well. But the biggest difference
    came in the confidence it gave us to transform the garden. The borders used to
    be a no-go area between May and September as the clay baked and cracked, but
    the new soil was easy to handle and weeds could be successfully removed. We
    realised that there are no quick fixes - the key to a healthy garden is rich,
    nutritous soil. Once our plants began to thrive we were optimistic that, with
    good advice, we could create a garden to be proud of.
• I visited a prospective client whose second laid lawn sloping up from the house in the
  back garden was needed to be replaced. The turves had dried and the clay soil had
  also dried with the result that the turves separated. She had had the builder lay a
  horizontal patio at the back of her new house and the lawn went from there up to the
  next house. Her home and garden were on clay. I did point out to her that when it
  rained, then the patio would become a lake and her house would subside, since not
  only the rain falling on the patio but the rain falling on the lawn would also end up at
  the patio. I refused to quote for her lawn replacement.
  Solution -
  in next row.
• When requested by a builder, I visited his site where huge excavators were used to dig
  the trenches for the drains and utilities. The garden at the back of the showhouse had
  a downward slope from the garden wall to the house and moss was already growing
  round the french windows facing the back garden.
  Solution -
  in next Row.

There is other compostable waste that could be used in the above mixture - The following is from a
farmer who runs Riverford Organic Farmers who deliver weekly boxes of vegetables, meat etc from
their farms to the homes of members of the public in Britain in his weekly epistle dated Monday 4th
December 2017:-

"So why now, in my 57th year, have I seen the light?

• Firstly, given the environmental impact of livestock, we need a more sustainable source of
  fertility than muck.
• Secondly, I met a man who sent 10 tonnes of cooked crab waste, packed with valuable
  nutrients, to landfill every week at huge cost to him and the environment,
  then another bloke in the pub looking for a home for 1000's of tonnes of wood chip;
  the perfect high carbon material to mix with the nitrogen-rich crab.
• Thirdly, our agnostic and practical farm team attest to compost soil and its crop improving
  properties.
• Fourthly, I met Milan, a highly practical Bulgarian organic grower and compost expert who,
  with alchemist wizardry, seems to be able to make compost from almost anything given a
  thermometer and loader. Milan brewed up a little crab, wood chip and spent wool insulation
  and tried some of the resulting compost on my cardoons and artichokes; they love it.

So, I have seen the errors of my youth and come inside. Milan tells me we have only just started.

It is shocking how much compostable material is wasted at such cost to our environment:

• food waste,
• sewage sludge,
• whey,
• wood chip,
• hedge trimmings,
• seafood waste,
• abattoir waste.

The reasons are:-

• Partly the unintended consequences of well-meaning environmental and health legislation;
• partly the chronic failing of businesses and our market economy to solve complex long-term
  problems involving bulky, perishable, highly variable and locally specific raw materials; and
• partly that the alternatives are just too cheap.

Time is running out; we cannot afford 100% safety when environmental destruction is 95% certain
if we continue on our current path."

If the above waste was turned into compost that would last as a mulch like spent mushroom compost,
which lasts for 2-3 years with 25-35% loss replenishment each year in the autumn, then it could be
sold to the above home owners in bags to put alongside their hedges, in planted pots and in the
flower beds throughout the year.
The present system of commercial composting of the garden waste taken from the domestic Brown
Bins by the refuse collectors each week in England produces a soil conditioner to provide nutrients
for the soil instead of a mulch material. The weeds as well as the purchased cultivated plants happily
eat it and it is treated as a richly fertilized earth under it instead of a seaparate mulch; as I
discovered in a client's garden. It does not provide the benefits that a mulch does of stopping the
germination of weed seeds and a reduction of moisture loss.
Jersey Royals Potatoes are grown using seaweed harvested from Jersey beaches as a natural
fertilizer. If the soil conditioner detailed in the previous paragraph was spread first and natural
non-dried seaweed was added on top as a mulch, then the advantages of a mulch would occur and
reduce the garden owner's time in weeding his/her garden. This mulch could be added - onto the
new soil created from the waste ingredients above - after 2 months from when that soil had been
installed and annually after that. Jersey seed potatoes could be planted in this mulched area to
provide many health benefits to its garden owners in the form of their own organically grown food.
Builders could then sell new houses with healthy soil by

• including red clover green manure seeds sown 2 months after the new soil has been
  installed to fix nitrogen from the air, weed suppression and improve the soil structure and
• the promise of the new owners producing their own potato crop!!!

If you cannot be bothered to buy the commercially produced soil conditioner and collect your own
seaweed to be harvested from beaches, then the following could still provide these other benefits
in the same time slots as in above paragraph:-
To promote healthy growth of potted indoor and outdoor plants and to provide the trace elements
(that other soil stimulants do not provide) ; you might consider using the following from
Burncoose Nurseries:-
"All-purpose Seaweed Stimulant
All-purpose organic concentrated seaweed feed that is a ready to use, derived from sustainable
harvested kelp, that can be used on all outdoor and indoor plants, except acid loving plants, use
our Ericaceous seaweed stimulant instead.
The product contains very high levels of auxins and cytokins that are naturally plant growth
promoters.
The natural hormones in Empathy All Purpose Seaweed are taken up by the plant and promote
faster and stronger root and shoot growth. They will also promote the development of beneficial
bacteria, microbes and the Mycorrhizal Fungi in the soil."
You can incorporate seaweed into your own diet to give you Iodine for proper thyroid function, if
nothing else appeals.

China sells a lot of seaweed.

The Cornish Seaweed Company sells edible Cornish Seaweed and
Maine Coast Sea Vegetables in America sells edible seaweeds harvested from the North Atlantic.
It would appear that if you want seaweed as a mulch for your garden, then you will have to go and
collect it yourself as the farmers do on Jersey.

The following is from No Dig Vegetable Garden Website:-
"Seaweed in the garden, how do I love thee... let me count the ways:

1 Seaweed fertilizer is actually a bit mis-named. It is more of a tonic, due to the low quantity
of nitrogen and phosphorus... although it does have the full range of properties in it to improve
your soil. As well as supplying bulk to condition the soil, seaweed contains around 60 trace
elements, growth hormones and nutrients, and fungal and disease preventatives. Interestingly
any soil imbalances, such as a deficiency of nitrogen, will be corrected by adding seaweed which
will balance the soil environment so that nitrogen fixing bacteria are helped along.

2 Seaweed stays put if you put it on the garden. It doesn't blow away or clump together or
roll away.

3 Seaweed deters pests. Birds don't like to get hurt with it when it's hard and scratchy and
don't like getting tangled with it when it's wet and slinky.

4 Same with dogs, cats and many other critters. It's just too darned awkward, and for some
animals the smell is off-putting.

What's the best way to use seaweed on the garden?

• Firstly, there is no need to wash seaweed because the sand and salt water clinging to it contains
  essential elements that will benefit plants. Unless you happen to have a high sodium content
  in your soil, remember, there is no need to wash seaweed before using it in or on your garden.
• Secondly, don't try cutting seaweed up with a mower because there are stones, sand and shells
  hiding in it.
• Thirdly, dry and hard seaweed is just as phenomenal for plant growth as when it's wet and soft.
  The older and harder it is, obviously the longer it will take to break down and supply nutrients
  to the soil for feeding your plants.
• Fourthly, many countries have rules about protecting their marine coastlines, which includes the
  harvesting of seaweed. Commercial operators you are not, so it's unlikely you will deplete this
  resource by strolling along the local beach and filling up a bag with seaweed.
  However check beforehand, and if you can't find any information about your area, or there are
  no notices on the beach, follow these guidelines:
• It is fine to pluck floating seaweed and seaweed below the high tide mark. Seaweed that has
  washed up above the high tide mark often makes a valuable contribution to the biodiversity of
  the beach and surrounds. It helps stops sand erosion and provides a habitat for local plant and
  insect life."