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Erica andevalensis now treated as Erica mackayana ssp andevalensis |
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The 2 rows of "Height x Spread in inches (cms) (1 inch = 2.5 cms, 12" = 1 foot = 30 cms) and Comment" state the Heather Description from 'Handy Guide to Heathers Descriptions & Suppliers of over 1000 varieties" by David & Anne Small, published in 1992 by Denbeigh Heather Nurseries (ISBN 0-9519160-0-9). This gives the official Heather Society flower colour(s) and foliage colour(s). |
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Ivydene Gardens Heather Evergreen Shrub Index |
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Fred J. Chapple wrote The Heather Garden, which was published in 1952 and the revised edition in 1960. He had been growing heathers for over 30 years, and was a well-known expert on these plants. His soil chapter:- "Too many fallacies on this subject have been allowed to spread into the mind of the average gardener; they have on the whole done more harm than good and deterred many cultivating heathers. It has often been assumed and, unfortunately, taken too much for granted, that heathers require special treatment, that they must have peat above everything else, or there should be no lime at all. There are some people who still beleive with all the good faith in the world that they will only grow on the wild moors and that the white kind is to be found nowhere else but Scotland. Whence came these unfounded ideas no one seems to know and as they would appear to belong to the realm of myth, it is time such legends were exploded. Perhaps it will help to restore the balance of practical thought by making it cear that heathers will grow quite satisfactorily in :-
Avoid:-
It is better to plant in poor soil than rich. If it is poor, so much the better if you add plenty of granulated peat. Stiff clay, which heathers will not stand at any price, should be dug out to a depth of at least 2 feet (24 inches, 60 cms) and well-broken soil (preferably loam) substituted. The soil where most of my heathers grow is medium loam, which breaks up well, crumbly to a depth of some 15 inches (38 cms); the subsoil consists of broken clay, sand and stones. It has not taken many year's cultivation to discover the value of these ingredients for the heath family as a whole, whether it be a tall tree such as Erica arborea alpina, or a small heather, Calluna minima. The humus of the loam provides sufficient food for the plants, the clay sufficient moisture, and the sand sufficient drainage. They seem to thrive more in this medium than any other I can think of, the texture of the loam always stimulating strong root action, especially when the plants have been put down for layering. During the abnormal dry period from Easter to Whitsun in 1949 over a 1000 heaths and heathers of all kinds were transplanted as rooted layers in this soil and the losses were very few indeed. Fibrous loam is undoubtedly an ideal mixture should you be fortunate enough to possess it, but it will be found that heathers grow and respond freely to the soil of the average garden, provided it is reasonably well drained, forked, and made into a friable condition - this tilth, as one would call it, is more important than all the soils put together. As for peat, the granulated sort (peat-moss litter)) is sold at a reasonable price. The bale is dry when collected and should then be left exposed to the weather in a pit in the garden for a few months before being used. Bought in the autumn, the peat is in excellent condition for the plants in the following spring and it goes a long way. I do not recommend moorland peat, quite apart from the problem of transport. With the degree of acidity running pretty high, it is not safe to use straight from the moor to the plants, which may easily sicken and turn a yellow colour. After gathering it off the moor, the peat is left in a dry shed for some time, until much of the water is drained away. Plenty of sand is mixed with this sort of peat before using it sparingly. Give me the loam any day. Peat - the granulated kind - is usually apllied as follows:-
The Spring dressing imparts freshness and vigour to the plants - tones them up, so to speak, and improves the foliage. While peat used in this way is beneficial to the heathers, it should be made clear that it is not essential to either their existence or their success; they will grow quite well without it.
A FEW WORDS ABOUT LIME When will these outworn theories disappear from common thought? Because he has limed his plot at some time or other, the gardener takes it forgranted that henceforth no heather plant will grow in it. What an erroneous assumption! The truth of the matter is, after the soil has been sweetened by the influence of lime, it will be in better condition for receiving a colony of heathers. This may seem like heresy to some heather growers, who abhor the presence of lime, which is, after all, a matter of degree. If the soil by nature's provision is impregnated with it to the extent that no lime dressings are required, then it would be advisable to restrict the plants to the
While these heaths will prosper in calcareous soil, and probably Erica vagans as well, the life of most of the others, particularly the Calluna heathers would be anything but a happy one. There is, however, a wide difference between soil which is naturally of a calcareous nature and from which lime cannot be completely eradicated and soil of an entirely opposite character that receives an occasional dressing as one of many routine jobs in the garden. In the former soil certain heathers, most of them, in fact, are doubtful of surviving, in the latter they are almost sure to succeed.
One drawback in planting heathers is that many gardens have been so liberally dressed with lime over a period of years, that the beds are full of it. In this case, plenty of peat must be worked into the soil before planting ericaceous subjects. In the drive for vegetables - during World War II - about 1200 lbs (2.2 lbs = 1000 grammes= 1Kg) of lime were scattered over roughly 300 square yards (1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 25 mm); 3 years later I planted 2 varieties of heather - Erica pyramidalis and Calluna vulgaris 'Minor', as an experiment to see how they responded to the limed soil. Not only did the the plants thrive as though there had been no lime at all but Calluna vulgaris 'Minor' produced nearly a 100 healthy-looking seedlings. Since then, I have not hesitated to plant all kinds and have risked as many as 1500 on that territory. The lime proved beneficial to the loamy soil and the plants were the better for it in the long run. In some parts of the country the soil is of a light sandy nature, dry and often parched during the warm summer months. Plenty of peat should be worked into the sand, for most heathers grow splendidly when sand and peat are mixed. Throw copious quantities of peat into the hole at the time of planting, see that roots are saturated with it and don't spare the peat all round the plant - the sand will find its own way. Avoid trenching, as this will only bring more sand to the surface and so defeat the good work of the peat. Another method, which was given to me a long time ago by an experienced nurseryman, and which I have tried so successfully that I gladly pass it on to others, is to dig a fairly large hole, say 2 feet (60 cms), and drop in the bottom a grass sod of substantial size upside down. Spread over the turf a little loose soil, and allow the roots of the heather you are planting to fall into the top mixture. If the soil is on the dry side; water the sod first, and should peat be available (every heather gardener should have a moderate supply of peat handy for use in exceptionally dry weather) work it into the roots at the time of planting. The top layer of soil, not being of a rich nature, will maintain the plant in its natural habit during the early stages of growth; later, the roots will thread their way into the rotting clod which provides fresh sources of food energy. Only with a limited number of plants can this method be adopted, as there would hardly be sufficient sods available for a fairly large garden. The threading of the fine hairs of the roots into something which makes the operation an easy one is half the secret of successful heather cultivation, and as far as I have been able to make out there is nothing to beat loam, as it decomposes and breaks into fine soil. There are growers who add a little sand and leaf-mould (or peat) to pure loam, but I hardly think this is necessary. In soil which has been much enriched; heathers grow on at too rapid a pace and there is a tendency for them to become drawn and 'leggy'. Although advice is given that they are best kept away from such substantial fare as manure, it is surprising the number of plants I have seen with this ungainly habit, as the result of acceleration in growth caused by over-feeding. Such a condition may be partly remedied by clipping over the tops with the secateurs or shearers after the blooms have faded, preferably in the early spring for the summer-flowering heaths and in the early summer for the coming winter and spring ones. I have referred elsewhere to a railway embankment which was set ablaze and the entire area denuded of all visible growth. The great colony of seedlings which appeared later out of that charred heap produced flowers more pink in shade than the purple common to the type; the spikes, too, were long and packed with bloom. A little heather world was reborn to the light of day out of very poor soil, peat and stones. This is not to suggest that periodically one should 'fire' the old heaths of a garden in anticipation of a new and healthy family emerging at some future date ( it is doubtful whether any would appear at all) but to provide a simple illustration from Nature's field of activity that special soil is not only unnecessary, but altogether undesirable. All heaths and heathers should be kept neat and tidy, the Calluna vulgaris 'Hammondii's and Calluna vulgaris 'Searlei's never being allowed to grow into gross, tall subjects as we sometimes find them. Those who have cultivated these plants may ponder awhile on what has been written here on the subject of soil - and I am quite prepared to receive criticism. What it really amounts to is that planting should be done according to common sense, and, without worrying unduly about the soil, the average gardener will probably find his heather doing far better than he imagined at the outset. When they are seen flourishing in places he little dreams of, among gorse and bracken, over rough grass hummocks, and on dry banks, surely they will do equally well in his garden." |
Loam "Loam is soil composed mostly of sand and silt, and a smaller amount of clay (about 40%-40%-20% concentration, respectively). These proportions can vary to a degree, however, and result in different types of loam soils:
In the USDA textural classification triangle, the only soil that is not predominantly sand, silt, nor clay is called "loam".
My Soil topic provides other data and diagrams.
Calcareous is an adjective meaning mostly or partly composed of calcium carbonate, in other words, containing lime or being chalky.
Ericaceous (lime-hating) plants are plants that don’t like growing in soils that contain lime and so are called ericaceous plants, acid lovers or lime haters. This means they won’t grow well in soils that have a high pH - such soils are referred to as alkaline. Ericaceous plants include rhododendron, camellia, azalea, pieris, summer-flowering heathers (calluna) and even Japanese maples (acer) among others. This also applies to blueberries. If you try growing ericaceous plants in alkaline or limey soils, they produce yellow leaves - a condition known as lime-induced chlorosis, don’t grow or flower well and usually, finally die. The main reason for this is that they need plenty of iron and other soil nutrients that become insoluble or ‘locked up’ in the soil at high pH, so the plants can’t absorb them.
Erica pyramidalis (or the Pyramid Heath) was a species of erica that was endemic to the city of Cape Town, South Africa. It was driven to extinction by the early 20th century, due to habitat destruction from the expanding city.
Calluna vulgaris 'Hammondii' varieties:-
Calluna vulgaris 'Serlei' varieties:-
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December 2014 - Mail Order Nurseries in the UK:-
Mail-order Nursery in Canada:-
Non Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK:-
Wholesale Nurseries in the UK:-
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I sent an email to Highland Heathers on Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:18 AM, and this was their reply on 18 December 2014 14:44:21:- From: enquiries@highlandheatherlodges.co.uk Subject: Re: Enquiry from Highland Heather Lodges Website Date: 18 December 2014 14:44:21 GMT To: Christopher Garnons-Williams <chris@ivydenegardens.co.uk>
Hi,
We are in the process of revamping our website and any errors are being amended
Regards John Davidson
HIGHLAND HEATHER LODGES HAS A NO SMOKING AND NO PETS POLICY. HIGHLAND HEATHER LODGES NOW HAS WIRELESS INTERNET ACCESS AVAILABLE IN THEIR LODGES. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Highland Heather Lodges Website" <website@highlandheatherlodges.co.uk> To: <enquiries@highlandheatherlodges.co.uk> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:18 AM Subject: Enquiry from Highland Heather Lodges Website
Name: Chris Garnons-Williams
Email: chris@ivydenegardens.co.uk
Comments: As my hobby, I am creating a small website www.ivydenegardens.co.uk and you are 1 of the very few mail-order nurseries left in the UK, I am saddened by your stocklist. If you wish to put your heathers in types starting with Calluna vulgaris, then do change the name column in each of the other heather types. please put the Daboecia before the Erica. Many of the Erica hybrids are actually Erica darleyensis and should be put into that table. Since I intend to link to your site if you sell the respective heather, then it might be better if it was easier to use. As usual I do not expect a reply, but you never know if at least one of the nurseries I write to about problems with their sites would both do something about it and/or be courteous by providing a reply even it is just "Problem resolved".
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4794 / Virus Database: 4235/8758 - Release Date: 12/18/14 -----
Further reply received on 7 May 2015 12:19:42:- HI Chris
We have now updated our web site.
Kind regards
Elaine Davidson
On 28 Apr 2015, at 06:07, Highland Heather Lodges Website <website@highlandheatherlodges.co.uk> wrote:
Name: chris Garnons-Williams
Email: chris@ivydenegardens.co.uk
Comments: When is your stocklist of 2014 going to be updated to the current one and its table headings corrected? I asked this in December 2014 and you replied that you were updating the website. I know you close in January-March, but you have now had another month to correct only 1 page. --------------- The Stocklist Page on Highland Heathers Comrie stated the following:- Please call for up-to-date stock on Friday 8 May 20:42. |
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Site design and content copyright ©December 2014. Index Page for each Comparison Page of Heather Comparison Gallery created in this Gallery in December 2014. Chris Garnons-Williams. |
Some heathers besides having flowers have foliage colours that change from 1 season to the next season in the UK -
and the Index for the heathers shown in each of these Comparison Pages is in 1 or more Index Pages in the relevant Heather Evergreen Shrub Index Gallery instead of being in the same Comparison page, due to their being too many to include within the available space. |
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Financial Solution to Economic collapse of the United Kingdom The following are excerpts from Moneyweek of 30 December 2014:-
What is the United Kingdom National Debt? "The United Kingdom National Debt is the total quantity of money borrowed by the Government of the United Kingdom at any one time through the issue of securities by the British Treasury and other government agencies. So the first drain on available funds to pay for state expenditure on The National Health Service, Education or anything else is:-
The second drain on available funds to pay for state expenditure on The National Health Service, Education or anything else is:-
Solution of 5 parts together with a future increase in tax collected by the British Government to create a surplus instead of a deficit:-
Let us look at the Social Security and Health Benefits in Portugal:- "Social Security benefits only apply to Portuguese nationals, qualifying European Union nationals, and those legally resident in Portugal as well as their spouses and dependents. Citizens of other countries should seek advice from their Embassy or Consulate regarding obtaining private insurance. The social security system has three basic schemes:
All individuals registered for social security coverage are also covered for healthcare in Portugal. Contributions are made by both employer and employee. Employer contributions cover work-related accidents and occupational illness. The Portuguese government pays for healthcare coverage while the employee pays for other benefits including maternity, old-age pensions and disability. Once an individual begins working in Portugal and is registered with social security, they are automatically registered for healthcare coverage. Deductions for coverage are automatically taken from their pay and a healthcare card is issued by the local Ministry of Health. This healthcare card was known as the Livrete de Assistência Médica, is now called the card Cartão do Utente (service user card). To apply for a Social Security Card (Cartão de Segurança Social), contact a local office of the Social Security Institute. The following documents will be required when registering with social security:
Employees must contact the Social Security Institute within 24 hours of beginning any new job in Portugal. This is to ensure that contributions are properly credited. This can be done via the internet, using Form RV1009-DGSS or in another written form. The notification must include:
Employers are also required to report to the Social Security Institute any new worker. European Union citizens who have made social security contributions elsewhere in the EU may be covered under reciprocal agreements. Contact the Social Security Institute (Instituto da Solidariedade e da Segurança Social) for further information. Employees pay a percentage of their salary which varies from between 10 and 15 percent per month. The employer matches it with approximately twenty percent. The employer must complete Form RV1009/2009 (the employee should sign it) and it must be turned in to the Social Security Institute. Self-employed workers currently pay between 25.4 and 32 percent per month, or up to 12 times the minimum national wage determined by the worker. A percentage must be deducted directly from the Green Receipt Book (Caderneta de Recibos Verdes) for each invoice issued. Payments can be made on a monthly basis via the Multibanco ATM system or at the Post Office (Correios de Portugal) and any differences between payments and the final calculation will be reconciled at the end of the tax year. Social security affiliation is voluntary for self-employed workers whose gross yearly income is less than or equal to six times the national minimum wage, it is mandatory for those self-employed workers who earn more than six times the national minimum wage. Payments must be made on or before the fourteenth of each calendar month, and can be made via the ATM Multibanco cash points (select Pagamentos ao Estado then Segurança Social and key in the details) or at the Post Office. Payments made after the sixteenth of the month are subject to interest. Unemployment benefits (subsídio de desemprego) Employees who are made redundant or involuntarily unemployed are entitled to receive unemployment benefit of 65 percent of their salary for up to 900 days, depending on how long the recipient has contributed to the social security system as well as their age. It is possible to receive partial unemployment benefit if a part-time job is found. A Declaration of Unemployment Status (Declaração da Situação de Desemprego) form RP 50440DGSS, must be submitted to a local Employment Centre within 90 days. Self-employed workers are not entitled to Unemployment Benefit (Subsídio de Desemprego) if their business fails, but if they are unable to work because of serious illness and have paid Social Security contributions they may be entitled to Incapacity Benefit (Invalidez). There is no system of Income Support in Portugal. Self-employed people are recommended to take out private insurance.
It is a pity that British Politicians in 2015 do not understand that you should only spend what you have rather than spend that and keep borrowing every year with no possibility of repaying that deficit or debt, so Britain is headed for a complete financial and social collapse within 3 years - written 4 January 2015. |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
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