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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
The following Container Gardening for Wildlife is from Appendix 1 of The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
"It is quite possible to entice wildlife into even the most unpromising paved areas by utilising containers. Several mini-habitats can be created by growing a carefully selected range of trees, shrubs and flowers in pots, tubs, window boxes and hanging baskets. If the space is enclosed by walls or high fences, it is important to let the passing wildlife know that this area is a source of food and shelter. Aim to add height and greenery with a small native tree grown in a good-sized wooden barrel and add 1 or 2 berry-bearing shrubs. Clothe the walls in climbers for nesting birds and introduce nectar-rich flowers for the insects. Finally, put up a nesting box amongst the climbers and find a place for a feeding table in winter and a bird bath in the summer. Despite the lack of grass and full-size trees, a surprising range of creatures will begin to inhabit this new garden.
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DON'T FORGET HERBS
Herbs are amongst the most useful wildlife plants, including borage, mint, chives and rosemary, and are ideally suited to container growing. Do allow them to flower though, even at the expense of a continuous supply of leaves for cooking.
FOUR-SEASON WINDOW BOX
Try planting a window box with the following selection of evergreens, perennials, bulbs and bedding plants, for an all-the-year-round display.
WINTER Ivy, hellebores, snowdrops
SPRING Ivy, yellow crocus and grape hyacinths
SUMMER Ivy, white alyssum and dwarf lavender
AUTUMN Ivy, meadow saffron.
APPENDIX 2 has a Traditional Wildlife Garden Plan and a Garden Plan for Urban Wildlife.
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STEP-BY-STEP CONTAINER PLANTING
Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and that they are free of obstruction.
Put a layer of broken clay pots or crockery over the base of the container.
Half-fill with a multi-purpose potting compost.
Place the plants in position and fill around the root ball with more compost. Press down firmly.
Water well and add more compost if necessary, to bring the level up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the container.
Use the self-watering containers and potting mix detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page rather the the pots or multi-purpose potting compost detailed above. Provide an outside water tap and watering can, so that you can irrigate the pots without traipsing the can through the house.
NOTE To boost the wildlife habitat in a concrete yard, make a pile of logs in one corner. As the wood begins to break down, it will house beetles, spiders and slugs - great food for birds. The cool, damp habitat may be secluded enough to offer daytime cover to a toad, or possibly frogs and newts from a nearby pond.
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RECOMMENDED PLANTS
TREES Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia 'Fastigiata') Dwarf form (120 inches (300 cms)). Flowers for insects and berries for birds.
Willow (Salix caprea 'Pendula') Weeping form (120 inches (300 cms)). Catkins for insects, young leaves for caterpillars.
SHRUBS Buddleia davidii (120 inches (300 cms)) Nectar from flowers for butterflies.
Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' (120 inches (300 cms)) Berries and flowers.
Hawthorn (Craaegus monogyna) (180 inches (500 cms)) can be pruned hard to keep it within bounds. Secure nesting sites for birds. Berries and flowers.
Holly (Ilex aquifolium) (to 180 inches (500 cms)) a male and female bush are needed to be sure of berries. Nesting cover for birds.
Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) Scented and attracts bees, flowers.
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CLIMBERS Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) Summer wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers.
Ivy (Hedera helix) All-year-round wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers.
FLOWERS FOR NECTAR Alyssum Candytuft (Iberis) Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus). Nicotiana Night-scented stock (Matthiola bicornis). Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis).
PLAN OF A SMALL ENCLOSED PATIO WITH CONTAINERS Exit doorway on left with window on its left and window box outside window. Group of pots between door and window. Another group of pots in corner after window with one of the pots containing a tree. A wall basket between that corner and the corner on the right where a barrel with ivy is growing up the wall. A bench is half-way down to the bottom right corner with its pot group and a pile of logs. A bird table is half-way across to the bottom left corner with its large pot." - Use a 4 inch (10 cm) plastic pipe through the wall to allow non-flying creatures access from the public area outside to your garden area.
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The following Growing Marsh Plants in Containers is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
Where space is limited, or simply as an alternative to conventional patio plants, it is possible to grow moisture-loving species in pots and tubs. The container needs to retain water - a terracotta pot which has a porouus structure would not be suitable, but a glazed ceramic pot would work well. Plastic pots can also be used - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page. Choose a pot at least 12 (30) deep and 16 (40) across. The best way to ensure the compost stays wet is to stand the whole pot in a substantial tray of water, so that the marsh can draw up moisture as it is needed (there is a water reservoir in the self-watering pots detailed above). Ordinary plant saucers will not hold enough water, and something deeper like a large kitchen roasting tin, which may not look so elegant, will do the job more effectively. Spring is an ideal time to plant moisture-loving plants. Fill the container with a loam-based potting compost, insert the plants and water until soaked. Choose plants that won't outgrow the limited space too quickly. Include a selection of tall-growing species like purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), sweet flag (Acorus calamus) and ragged robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) alongside smaller plants like bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) and x-lips (Primula elatior). Avoid lady's smock (Cardamine pratensis) and water mint (Mentha aquatica) which can spread too quickly. Keep the water in the base tray topped up, using rainwater collected in a water butt where possible. Keeping the tray full of water is particularly important in long, hot, dry spells, although in spring and autumn the naturall rainfall will probably be adequate. Cut back the foliage in the autumn to prevent the pots becoming choked with decaying material. Repot the plants every 2 or 3 years when they start to outgrow their containers. In the second year after planting, the plants may have used up the nutrients in the compost and will need an extra boost from a slow-release fertiliser.
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MOISTURE-LOVING NATIVE PLANTS Plant / Use of Plant
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Height
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Flower Colour
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Flowering Time
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Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata) / Moths
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10 (25)
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White
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Mid-Summer
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Globe Flower (Trollius europaeus /
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24 (60)
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Yellow
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Early Summer
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Oxlip (Primula elatior) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant
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6 (15)
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Pale Yellow
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Late spring
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Primrose (Primula vulgaris) / Butterfly nectar plant
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4 (10)
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Pale Yellow
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Mid-spring
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Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant
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36 (90)
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Pink-purple
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Summer
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Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) / Butterfly nectar plant
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24 (60)
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Pink
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Summer
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Sweet Flag (Acorus calamus) /
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24 (60)
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Green
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Mid-summer
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Bog Arum (Calla palustris) /
Naturalised in places in Britain
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6 (15)
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Yellow-green
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Summer
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Hemp Agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum) / Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant
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48 (120)
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Reddish-pink
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Late summer
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Lady's Smock (Cardamine pratensis) / Attractive to Hoverflies, Caterpillar food plant, Butterfly nectar plant
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9 (23)
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Pale pink
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Spring
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Marsh Betony (Stachys palustris) / Bee plant
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12 (30)
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Purple
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Summer
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Marsh Cinquefoil (Potentilla palustris) /
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9 (23)
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Dark red
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Summer
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Marsh St John's Wort (Hypericum elodes) /
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6 (15)
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Pale yellow
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Summer
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Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) /
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36 (90)
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Creamy-white
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Summer
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The following Planning a Herb Bed or Garden is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Although there are a huge number of culinary and medicinal herbs which can be grown, not all are relevant to wildlife. The herbs in the fourth column describe the best herbs for attracting garden wildlife.
PREPARING THE SITE The best location for a herb bed is one which gets a lot of sun and where the soil is already well drained. Most herbs dislike getting waterlogged roots and can tolerate almost drought conditions - in fact, those like rosemary and marjoram with Mediterranean ancestry, improve in taste, scent and flower growth in a sunny location.
If the soil is not ideal (heavy clay for instance), it is possible to add some coarse grit to aid drainage. However, it might be smpler and more productive to grow the herbs in pots - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page, putting in a good layer of gravel before adding the compost.
The ground should be dug thoroughly, removing any weeds --->
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and large stones. Lay brick paths, edging tiles or wooden dividers before planting the herbs.
HERBS FOR LESS-THAN-IDEAL CONDITIONS Although most herbs prefer a sunny position in a well-drained soil, there are some which will tolerate shade and a heavier soil. The resulting plants may not do as well but there is no need to give up the idea of growing herbs altogether and the wildlife will still find them useful.
Mint (Mentha) can tolerate shade although it does tend to grow towards the light and become crooked and leggy.
Tansy (Tanecetum vulgare) is an excellent native plant for butterflies and it is not too fussy about growing conditions.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale), a relative of the fennel, is also worth growing for its young leaves which add a celery flavour to soups and stews. It will grow quite adequately in a dark, damp spot and the flowers produced, although not as abundant as they should be, will provide nectar for hoverflies, wasps and bees.
Comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) should be included purely for its leaves which are a reliable food source for moth and butterfly caterpillars.
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is another strong grower in less than ideal conditions. Its white or pale yellow flowers rely on bees for their pollination.
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Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb, greatly prized for the flavour of its parsley-like leaves. It will tolerate some shade, but prefers a well-drained soil.
Great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) is a tall native herb that prefers a damp habitat and a heavy clay soil. The tiny crimson flowers appear from mid-summer to early autumn.
Angelica (Angelica archangelica), originally from central Europe, is widely naturalised in Britain. It will do well in a shady spot in damp soil and has huge seedheads in early autumn.
PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE CALENDAR Late Summer - prepare site
Autumn - Plant shrubs and pot-grown perennials
Spring - Sow seeds of annuals
Late Spring - Sow seeds of biennials
Summer - Keep beds free of weeds; water container plants. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3
Instead of snipping off the flowers as they appear, leave a few plants of parsley, mint, marjoram and lemon balm to flower naturally. Many more insects will visit the plants and consequently the herb garden will be a richer feeding ground for birds.
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TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Herb - Angelica (Angelica archangelica) Type - Biennial wildflower value - Flowers - hoverflies, bees. Leaves - butterflies, caterpillars. Seedheads - greenfinches, bluetits
Borage (borago officinalis) Annual Flowers - bees
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies
Comfrey (Symphytum uplandicum) Perennial Leaves - moths, butterflies
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare0 Perennial Flowers - bees, wasps, hoverflies Leaves - caterpillars
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) Perennial Flowers - lacewings, bees
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies
Marjoram (Origanum vulgare) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies
Mint (Mentha - all types) Perennial Flowers - bees, butterflies, moths
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies, hoverflies
Thyme (Thymus - all types) Perennial / shrub Flowers - bees, butterflies
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The following Recommended Bulbs is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
RECOMMENDED BULBS Name - Bluebell (Scilla non-scripta) Use of plant - Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant Site - Hedgerows, woodland Depth of soil above the bulb - 2 (5)
Crocus (Purple) (Crocus tomasinianus) Butterfly nectar plant Lawns, borders, under deciduous trees. 3 (8)
Crocus (Yellow) (Crocus chrysanthus) Butterfly nectar plant Lawns, borders, under deciduous trees. 3(8)
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari neglectum) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant. Lawns, borders. 3 (8)
Ramsons Garlic (Allium ursinum) Butterfly nectar plant. 3 (8)
Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Under deciduous trees, shady borders. 2 (5)
Wild Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) Bee plant. Lawns, banks. 3 (8)
Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) Under deciduous trees, shady borders. 2 (5)
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The following Incorporating Wildfflowers into an existing lawn is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
INCORPORATING WILDFLOWERS INTO AN EXISTING LAWN There are basically 2 ways of doing this, both of which can be implemented in early autumn. The first involves sowing seed, the second planting pot-grown plants. Whichever method is chosen, the best results will be obtained with a lawn that is already patchy and weak in growth. The lush green grass of a well-fed lawn is likely to swamp any wildflowers that are introduced.
SOWING WILDFLOWER SEED INTO AN EXISTING LAWN Begin by giving the lawn a thorough raking with a metal rake to remove moss, dead grass and leaves. Water thoroughly and sow the seed at the manufacturer's recommended rate.
ADDING POT-GROWN WILDFLOWERS TO AN EXISTING LAWN After the last cut of the season is a good time to put in pot-grown wildflowers. More and more nurseries are stocking wildflowers in pots, but remember to choose species which will suit your intended regime of meadow maintenance. Place the plants in groups, with individual plants 8-16 (20-40) apart. Remove a plug of earth the same size as the pot, using a bulb planter or trowel. Knock the plants from their pots and place them in the holes, firming down the soil and watering well afterwards.
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TYPICAL MEADOW MIXTURE 20% Flowering native perennials (as below) 40% Crested dog-tail (native grass) 30% Fescue (non-native grass) 10% Bent (lawn grass)
SPRING-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS Bladder campion (Silene vulgaris) Cowslip (Primula veris) Lady's bedstraw (Galium verum) Meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris)
SUMMER-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS Betony (stachys officinalis) Bird's foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) Field scabious (Knautia arvensis) Greater Knapweed (Centaurea scabiosa) Meadow cranesbill (Geranium pratense) Musk mallow (Malva moschata) Ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) Rough hawkbit (Leontodon hispidus) Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris)
Lindum Turf sell wildflower Mats for your new wildflower lawn instead of part of your old lawn
as well as Lindum's Wildflower Mat on Lindum's extensive green roof substrate for use as a Wildflower Green Roof
or could be used to create a wildflower lawn on a back garden, whose ground is currently covered in concrete, tarmac, brick or stone.
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The following Establishing a 'No Go' Area is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
It is important to nominate a part of the garden as a 'no-go' area for humans, which can be left deliberately untidy. Usually this is some spot well away from the house and preferably shielded by shrubs or trees, but it might equally be behind a garden shed or garage.
THE WOODPILE Old untreated timber or unwanted logs can be piled up to provide shelter for a range of creatures. Choose a shady spot to prevent the wood from drying out in the sun. If possible, use a mixture of native woods such as elm, oak or ash which will guarantee a wider range of insect species. Logs 6-9 (15-23) in diameter make a good pile.
The first wildlife to inhabit the pile will probably be fungi in the early autumn, but in time it will become home to spiders, beetles, wood wasps, solitary bees, slugs and snails. These will then attract bird predators, particularly wrens and blackbirds, who will pick over the pile in search of a meal. The insects will also provide food for wood mice, voles and hedgehogs.
First-year newts, after leaving the pond, may well spend large amounts of time in the damp shelter of a log pile.
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GROWING NETTLES FOR BUTTERFLIES Stinging nettles are the caterpillar food plants for commas, peacocks, red admirals, and small tortoiseshells who all rely on nettle leaves and shoots for their survival. If there is an existing nettle patch, this may need to be contained with a fence, wall or path. Better still, clumps of nettles can be transferred to large tubs or barrels sunk into the ground to prevent the roots from encroaching into the garden proper.
As the emerging caterpillars prefer fresh, new leaves to feed on, it is a good idea to cut back half the patch in early or mid-summer to encourage new growth. This is particularly important for commas and small tortoiseshells who regularly have 2 broods a year - the first in the spring, the second in mid-summer. The adults will seek out the new shoots to lay their eggs.
Nettles can be introduced into the garden if they are not growing naturally. In late winter, dig up some roots about 4 (10) long which are bearing yound shoots. Bury the roots in pots of garden soil and keep cutting back the shoots to 3 (7.5). By late spring the new plants can be put out into the untidy area.
The life-cycle of many butterflies extends over much of the year, so if you can put the plants that are used in its 4 stages in that untidy area, then it is more likely that you will see the butterfly, since YOU WILL NEVER BE TIDYING UP THAT NO-GO AREA. ---->
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LEAF PILES AND HEDGEHOG HABITATS if hedgehogs are to take up residence in the garden, they need a dry, secure place for hibernation from late autumn to early spring. A pile of dead leaves or garden prunings heaped into a corner will often be acceptable, but it is also possible to contruct a hibernation 'box'.
Use an upturned wooden box (untreated wood) and cut an entrance out of one of the side panels, 4-5 (10-12) square. This is large enough to allow the hedgehog to enter but small enough to prevent dogs or foxes getting in.
A covered entrance tunnel can also be constructed using 2 rows of house bricks stood on their sides and a plank of wood. This helps to keep the interior of the box dry, but is not essential.
Cover the box with a sheet of polythene to keep out the rain, and a mound of dry leaves or brushwood to disguise the exterior. Add a handful of straw or dry leaves as bedding.
HABITAT BOOSTERS Asheet of corrugated iron does not look very attractive, but if you happen to have one lying around, it is worth keeping. As the sun warms the metal, the 'tunnels' beneath become inviting resting quarters for slow worms and grass snakes. Equally, an old paving slab laid over a hollow in the ground and in a shady spot makes a damp hiding place for frogs and toads.
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The following Planting in Gravel and Paving is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
Many plants enjoy the dry growing conditions and refected warmth of gravel, stone chippings or paving. It is relatively easy to incorporate native species into existing paving schemes or to lay areas of gravel.
MAKING A GRAVEL BED The underlying soil should be well-drained and gritty. If it is too heavy, mix it with equal parts of rock chippings or gravel. If the ground area is concrete/ tarmac/ stone/ paver or brick, cover the area with a layer of equal parts of top dressing and stone chippings to a 2 (5cm) depth, before continuing as below.
Cover the area with a layer of sand 1 (2.5) deep.
Finish the bed with a 1 (2.5) layer of gravel or 0.25 (0.5) stone chippings.
Water plants well before removing them from their pots. Use a narrow trowel to make holes the same size as the root ball and firm them in gently.
Water new plants thoroughly and sprinkle more gravel over the surface if necessary
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PLANTING IN PAVING If new paths or patios are to be laid, it is worth considering leaving some gaps between the paving stones as planting pockets. If the stones are already laid, it is still possible to incorporate a wide range of species.
The simplest way is to take up some of the stones, perhaps create a chequeboard effect. This is better done in a random pattern, rather than taking out every other stone. The earth beneath the stones shuld be workable and weed-free. Dig out the earth to a depth of 6-9 (15-23) and mix with an equal quantity of gravel or stone chippings. Replace the soil mixture and plant in the normal way.
Brick paths or patios can be planted in the same way. Take out any bricks that are already damaged or crumbling and fill the gaps as above.
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PLANTS FOR PAVING AND GRAVEL The following plants will thrive in a shallow, well-drained soil in full sun and will self-seed easily:
Broom (Cytisus scoparius) Native or naturalised species, Bee plant
Common Toadflax Native or naturalised species, Bee plant
Globe Thistle (Echinops sphaerocephalus) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant
Great Mullein (Verbascum phlomoides) Native or naturalised species, Large number of associated insects
Hawkweed (Hieracium murorum) Native or naturalised species
Lady's Bedstraw (Galium verum) Native or naturalised species
Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides) Native or naturalised species
Thyme (Thymus species) Especially the native Thymus praecox Bee plant
Trailing St John's Wort (Hypericum humifusum) Native or naturalised species
White Campion (Silene latifolia) Native or naturalised species
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Native or naturalised species
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The following Constructing a Rock Bank is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
If the garden has no manmade rock garden or natural outcrops of rock for planting, it is possible to make a rock bank to provide a useful wildlife habitat. This is a simple construction and far less costly than a full-scale rock garden.
Stack the stones randomly to form a double-sided wall to the desired height and length.
Between each layer of stones, add a mixture of stone chippings or gravel and loam potting compost (this makes a good growing medium for rock plants, but if not available any poor, stony garden soil can be substituted). There are better soil mixtures detailed for many rock garden plants in Colour Wheel Rock Gallery.
Leave some gaps between the stones without any soil, to allow access to the interior for small mammals and creatures.
Lay more stones or rocks across the top of the structure to form a 'lid'. The planting pockets can be planted with any of the rock or wall plants listed in the next column and the column below it.
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RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR ROCK BANKS AND GARDENS Plant - Cheddar Pink (Dianthus gratiano-poliatanus) Flower - Early Summer Height - 8 (20) Wildlife value - Moths, butterflies
Common Pink (Dianthus plumarius) Summer 8 (20) Bees
Hairy Thyme (Thymus praecox) Summe 3-4 (8-10) Bees
Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia) Late summer 12 (30) Bees
Hebe 'Autumn Glory' Autumn 24-36 x 24-36 (60-90 x 60-90) Butterflies
Hebe 'Carl Teschner' Summer 12 x 24-36 (30 x 60-90) Hoverflies, bees
Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) Summer 12 (30) Bees
Ling (Heather) (Calluna vulgaris) Late summer 12-24 x (30-60 x ) Ground cover for birds, grass snakes and slow worms
Purple Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) Summer 3 (8) Butterflies, bees
Rock Rose Bees, insects
Spring Gentian Butterflies, bees
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The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
Different types of hedges were planted for different purposes: a double hedge would mark an important boundary whilst a hedge designed to contain livestock would be particularly impenetrable at the base. Almost incidentally they became shelters and pathways for wildlife, harbouring birds, mammals and insects. In the garden, a hedge of native species can serve both as a wildlife provider and as an effective division between neighbouring plots.
CHOOSING THE SPECIES The use of only 1 species in a hedge as a wildlife corridor is limited. A mixed hedge provides a much wider resource and a greater number of animal and flower species will soon become associated with it. A balanced hedge might include a large proportion of one of the mainstay species such as hawthorn, which forms a dense, thorny structure, as well as blossoms and berries. This may be interspersed with 4 or 5 other species which flower and fruit at different times, and should include at least 1 evergreen to provide shelter in winter.
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TREES/SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR HEDGING
Alder Buckthorn (Frangula alnus) Deciduous, fruit
Beech (Fagus sylvatica) Slow-growing, deciduous, autumn colour
Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) Deciduous, blossom, fruit
Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris) Deciduous, blossom, fruit
Dog Rose (Rosa canina) Deciduous, blossom, hips
Elm (Ulmus procera) Deciduous
Field Maple (Acer campestre) Deciduous, autumn colour
Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) Deciduous, blossom, berries
Hazel (Corylus avellana) Deciduous, catkins, nuts
Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Slow-growing, evergreen, berries
Wild Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) Quick-growing, evergreen
Yew (Taxus baccata) Slow-growing, evergreen
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HOW TO PLANT A HEDGE
Choose two-year-old seedlings, which are large enough to handle, but should not need staking.
Mark out the length of the hedge with canes and string. It does not have to be a straight line, a curving hedge works just as well.
Dig a trench in front of the line, 24 (60) wide and 18 (45) deep, running the entire length of the proposed hedge. Remove weed roots and large stones whilst digging.
Add a layer of organic matter (garden compost or well-rotted manure) and mix with the loose soil at the bottom of the trench.
Set the plants, 12-18 (30-45) apart and at the same depth as they were in the nursery (shown by the soil mark on the stem), adding more soil to the bottom of the trench, if necessary, to ensure the plant will sit at the right depth.
Holding the plant upright, fill around the roots with loose soil, until it reaches the soil mark, firming it down well.
IMMEDIATE AFTERCARE
Water the new plants thoroughly, making sure the water soaks down around the roots. Cut back the top and side growths by at least one third - this will encourage side branching and bushy growth.
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WILDLIFE USES FOR HEDGING
Caterpillars of brimstone butterflies feed on alder buckthorn.
Blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel and privet provide nectar for many species of butterfly.
Thrushes, dunnocks, garden warblers and finches use the hedgerow for nesting
Hedgehogs, voles and woodmice shelter and feed in the hedge bottom.
Hawthorn, blackthorn and holly provide berries for birds in winter
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FLOWERING WALL PLANTS Small-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster microphyllus) Fruit / berries / nuts for birds / mammals
Hoary Cinquefoil (Potentilla argentea) Butterfly nectar plant, Bee plant
Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum) Large number of associated insects
Ivy-leaved Toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis) Butterfly nectar plant, Bee plant
London Pride (Saxifraga x urbinum) Butterfly nectar plant
Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) Native or naturalised species
Round-leaved Cranesbill (Geranium rotundifolium) Native or naturalised species
Stonecrops Biting stonecrop (sedum acre) White stonecrop (Sedum album) Butterfly nectar plants
Wallflower (Cheiranthus cheiri) Butterfly nectar plant
Wall Rocket (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) Bee plant
Arabis (Arabis albida) Bee plant, Butterfly nectar plant.
Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)
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The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN 0 7153 0033 4 :-
MAINTENANCE
Each spring, whilst the hedge is still forming, prune the top and side shoots by one third. Do not leave the central stem to grow to the desired height of the hedge before cutting back. Regular pruning will ensure that by the time the hedge does reach its final height, it will have developed a strong, dense framework
It is a good idea to apply a mulch of garden compost, leaf mould or chopped bark around the plants each spring (if you have trees growing besides the public road on its verge, then in the autumn when its leaves fall to the ground below, you can use your rotary mower to mow them up and put them as a mulch in the the hedge bottom.). This will discourage weeds (which may strangle the young hedge) and form a good environment for hedgerow plants and microscopic creatures. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3
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CLIPPING
The main difference between conventional hedge care and those managed for wildlife is in the clipping. Wildlife hedges should never be clipped before nesting is completely finished; usually it is safe to do so in late summer or early autumn, but in doubt, leave until the winter.
WILDLIFE TO EXPECT
Blackbirds, thrushes, dunnocks, sparrows, greenfinches and bullfinches all prefer the dense, protected growth of a hedge to any other nesting site. They will be joined in the summer, by shy, ground-feeding wrens, who search the leaf litter beneath the hedge for spiders and other insects. Many other garden birds like tits and robins will use the hedge simply as a convenient perch, for picking off caterpillars from the leafy growth. The hedge foliage is a particularly good breeding ground for moths such as the privet hawkmoth, garden spiders who leave their mark in the shape of finely woven webs and the often heard, but rarely seen, bush cricket. At ground level, the wildlife residents are most likely to be hedgehogs, wood mice and bank voles, although toads and frogs often hide in the shelter of a hedge bottom. In time a native hedge will become a busy wildlife corridor offering shelter, food and a convenient route from one part of the garden to another
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HEDGEROW FLOWERS
Although the soil at the base of the hedge may be poor, a surprising number of wildflowers seem to thrive here. The orientation of the hedge will determine which flowers may be grown. South-facing hedges receive a good deal of sun whilst north faces may be in almost complete shade. Choose a selection of plants to suit the position of your hedge. Most of the hedgerow flowers tolerate a dry, poor soil, but 1 or 2 such as primroses and lesser celandines need to be kept moist. Unless the hedge is by a stream or pool, it is unlikely that their needs will be met; they would be happier in a damp ditch or marshy area. Pot-grown plants can be planted out any time from spring to autumn. In the first 2 years of the hedge's growth, avoid putting in the taller plants, such as sweet cicely, which may compete with the new hedging. It is also advisable to wait until the hedge is well-established (5 years or more) before putting in hedgerow climbers, like traveller's joy (Clematis vitalba). Its scrambling habit is ideal for dense, well-grown hedges, but it can easily strangle younger plants. It is best to use small, healthy plants for the hedge bottom and not seedlings, whose roots may not be sufficiently developed to cope with the poor soil. Insert the new plants with a trowel and water thoroughly. Water regularly for the first 2 weeks - particularly if there is a hot, dry spell.
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RECOMMENDED NATIVE HEDGEROW FLOWERS
Plant - Betony (Stachys officinalis) Type - Perennial Position -Sun or shade Soil - Any Wildlife value - bees, butterflies
Bluebell (Scilla non-scripta) Bulb Sun or shade Any Bees, butterflies
Common Dog Violet (Viola riviana) Perennial Part shade Any Caterpillar food plant for fritillary butterflies
Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) Biennial Part shade Any Caterpillar food for orange tips, tortoiseshells and whites butterflies
Greater Stitchwort (Stellaria holostea) Perennial Part shade Any Bees, moths, butterflies
Hedge Wounwort (Stachys sylvatica) Perennial Part shade Any Bees, butterflies
Hedgerow Cranesbill (Geranium pyrenaicum) Perennial Part shade Any
Lesser Celandine (Ranunculus ficaria) Perennial Part shade Damp Bees, butterflies
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Primrose (Primula vulgaris) Perennial Sun or shade Damp Butterflies (whites)
Red Campion (Silene Dioca) Perennial Sun or shade Any Butterflies
Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees, butterflies
Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees
White Deadnettle (Lamium maculatum album) Perennial Sun or shade Any Bees
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: Cornel Family
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
- • Bumblebees which deals solely with bumblebees, and was the original part of the site.
- • Invertebrates, which deals with all the other invertebrates.
- • Homework answers, where you'll find hints and tips to common questions set as biology, ecology, botany, zoology homework, there are also definitions of common terms in biology.
- • Window box gardens, this was started when we were exiled to central Paris, and 2 north-facing window boxes were all the garden available, however it was amazing the wildlife those window boxes attracted. You'll find plant lists, hints and tips, etc.
- • Torphins, this is the village in north-east Scotland where we are now located. In this part of the site you can find photographs of invertebrates found locally, where to see them and when, also links to pages with more detailed information.
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. Once these have flowered don't throw them out. Cut off the heads (unless you want seed) then put them somewhere that the leaves can get the sun. This will feed the bulb for the next year. Once the leaves have died you can plant the bulbs outside and they will flower at the normal (unforced) time next year. The narcissus Tete-a-tete is particularly good, and provides early colour and a delicate fragrance too. Below I have listed groups of plants. I have tried to include at least four plants in each list as you may not be able to find all of them, although, unless you have a very large windowbox, I would recommend that you have just three in each box.
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Theme
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Plants
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Comments
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Thyme
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Thymus praecox, wild thyme
Thymus pulegioides
Thymus leucotrichus
Thymus citriodorus
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Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers.
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Herb
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Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary
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Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large.
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Mints
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Mentha longifolia, horse mint
Mentha spicata, spear mint
Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal
Mentha piperita, peppermint
Mentha suaveolens, apple mint
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Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months.
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Heather
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Too many to list
See Heather Shrub gallery
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For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing.
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Blue
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Ajuga reptans, bugle
Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell
Myosotis spp., forget-me-not
Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet
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This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed.
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Yellow
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Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch
Geum urbanum, wood avens
Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling
Linaria vulgaris, toadflax
Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil
Primula vulgaris, primrose
Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup
Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine
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These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed.
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White
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Trifolium repens, white clover
Bellis perennis, daisy
Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove
Alyssum maritimum
Redsea odorata, mignonette
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All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey.
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Pink
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Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin
Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious
Symphytum officinale, comfrey
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The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one.
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Fragrant
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Lonicera spp., honeysuckle
Alyssum maritimum
Redsea odorata, mignonette
Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea
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The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window.
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers
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Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop
Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius
Crocus purpureus, crocus
Cyclamen spp.
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The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy
Linaria vulgaris, toadflax
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle
Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious
Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal
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Butterfly Garden
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens With around 23 million gardens in the UK, covering 435,000 ha, gardens have great potential as wildlife habitats. And, with a bit of planning and a few tweaks, they can indeed be wonderful places for a whole host of creatures, from birds to bees, butterflies, frogs and toads, as well as many less obvious creatures. Wildlife-friendly gardens can be beautiful too, and a colourful garden full of life can lift the spirits and give immense pleasure, and can also help to connect people, both young and old, with our wonderful wildlife. The eight-point plan for a wildlife-friendly garden
- • Plants, Plants, Plants - The greater the number and variety of plants, the more wildlife you will attract.
- • Don’t Just Plant Anything - British natives attract the greatest variety of wildlife, closely followed by species from temperate regions of Europe, Asia and North America.
- • Add Water - A pond of any size will boost the variety of creatures in your garden.
- • Dead Matters - Dead and decaying vegetation is a vital resource for many creatures.
- • Build a Home - Provide bird and bat boxes etc.
- • Feed the Birds And other creatures too.
- • Don’t Use Pesticides - All pesticides are designed to kill.
- • Don’t Put Wildlife in a Ghetto - Make your entire garden wildlife-friendly and a home for wildlife – it will be worth it!
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden. Follow the links below to explore our show gardens, and when you visit, be sure to pick up a copy of our Wildlife Gardening Trail guide
- • The Wildlife Garden
- • The Rill Garden
- • The Orchard
- • The Butterfly Garden
- • The Bee Garden
- • The Wildlife Pond
- • Reptile Refuge
- • Creepy-crawly Garden
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From the Ode to the London Plane Tree by Heather Greaves:- "They are also very important to the city of New York (and not just because the leaf is the Parks Department logo). The London plane, usually considered Platanus x acerifolia but also known by other Latin epithets, is not really native, although it very closely resembles the native American sycamore, Platanus occidentalis. Actually, it is probably a cross between this American species and Platanus orientalis, a Eurasian relative. In any case, it has been widely planted as a city tree for decades, which turns out to be a good idea. In its assessment of the New York City urban forest, the US Forest Service Northern Research Station determined that the London plane is the most important city tree we have.
They base this conclusion on several factors. For one thing, London planes have a very high leaf area per tree; that is, the London plane gives us a lot more pretty, shady, air-filtering, evaporatively-cooling leaves per single trunk than most other species in the city. In fact, according to the Forest Service, London planes make up just 4% of the city tree population, but represent 14% of the city's total leaf area. (Compare this with the virulently invasive tree of heaven [Ailanthus altissima], which constitutes 9% of the tree population but only about 4% of the total leaf area.)
Also, because they tend to become very tall and have large canopies, London planes are our best trees for carbon storage and sequestration. They are holding on to about 185,000 tons of carbon (14% of the total urban tree carbon pool), and each year they sequester another 5,500 or so tons (about 13% of all the carbon sequestered by city trees each year). That makes them both gorgeous and highly beneficial: all in all, good trees to have around."
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Flack Family Farm:- ", in the Vermont hills, is a biodynamic farm using organic practices. Natural minerals and planned grazing with American Milking Devon cattle rejuvenate the soil, sequester carbon and yield nutrient dense foods and medicines including milk, grass fed meats, eggs, fermented vegetables (sauerkraut and kimchi / kim-chi), and herbal tinctures. We offer educational opportunities, farm visits, and seminars on nutrition, growing and preparing nutrient dense food, diversified farming and fermentation. AMERICAN MILKING DEVON, breeding stock, semen (shipped directly to you), bulls, bred cows, exclusively grass fed beef. GRASS-FED BEEF and PORK are raised naturally on pasture and sold in farm shop and through bulk order. LACTO-FERMENTED VEGETABLES, traditional foods are produced on farm and sold in Vermont natural food stores and in farm shop (no mail order). Workshops on the lacto-fermentation process available. MEDICINAL HERBS are propagated, harvested and tinctured. For herbal list, which includes Motherwort above. FARM FRESH RAW MILK available on farm, call to get on schedule. We do not feed grain. We test our cows for several milk quality components, details available on request. EDUCATION THROUGH HANDS-ON LEARNING, DISCUSSIONS, AND PRACTICE are the core of farm life. Doug Flack and farm family share their knowledge through farm work opportunities, classes and farm tours. Raw Milk Theater THE FARM IS SEASONAL IN NATURE. Grazing, milking, birthing, planting and harvesting take place from March - November."
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Edible Plants Club website "has been created largely from the point of view of a plantsman interested in the many different resources available in the plant world, especially edible and medicinal plants. What started me off on this path was reading Robert Harts book Forest Gardening and then Ken Fearns Plants for a Future and also Richard Mabeys 'Food For Free' along the way. This also led to me to change my career and become a gardener."
'Sort out your soil' - A practical guide to Green Manures, and Frequently Asked Questions from the Receptionist Myrtle of Cotswold Grass Seeds.
Saltmarsh Management Manual from the Environment Agency informs you about:-
- What is Saltmarsh,
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- Why manage Saltmarsh and
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- Saltmarsh Management
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- Angelica - Angelica archangelica Barberry - Berberis vulgaris Birch - Betula species Blackthorn - Prunus spinosa Bramble - Rubus species Centaury - Centaurium species Common knapweed - Centaurea nigra Cowslip - Primula veris Dandelion - Taraxacum offcinale Dock - Rumex species Evening primrose - Oenothera species Foxglove - Digitalis purpurea Goldenrod - Solidago canadensis and Solidago virgaurea Harebell - Campanula rotundifolia Heather - Calluna vulgaris Hedge woundwort - Stachys sylvatica Herb Bennet (wood avens) - Geum urbanum Herb Robert - Geranium robertianum Honeysuckle - Lonicera periclymenum Lady' Bedstraw - Galium verum Lemon balm - Melissa officinalis Lime - Tilia species Maiden pink - Dianthus deltoides
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Marjoram - Origanum officinale Meadow clary - Salvia pratensis Meadowsweet - Filipendula ulmaria Mullein - Verbascum species Nettle - Urtica dioica and Urtica urens Oak - Quercus robur and Quercus petraea Ox-eye daisy - Leucanthemum vulgare Plantain - Plantago species Poplar (and aspen) - Populus species Primrose - Primula vulgaris Purple loosestrife - Lythrum salicaria Ragged robin - Lychnis flos-cuculi Red campion - Silene dioica Red clover - Trifolium pratense Red valerian - Centranthus ruber Rock rose - Helianthemum species Sea kale - Crambe maritima Sweet rocket - Hesperis matronalis Toadflax - Linaria species Tobacco - Nicotiana species Traveller's joy - Clematis vitalba Viper's bugloss - Echium vulgare White campion - Silene alba Wild pansy - Viola tricolor Willow - Salix species Yarrow - Achillea millefolium and a chapter on Planning the Wildlife Garden.
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Bees under Bombardment from Bee Happy Plants Ltd.
"In mid summer, our gardens awash with colourful seas of showy blooms, may appear to be a haven for bees. Over the last few decades there has been a garden centre boom in cheap and cheerful bedding plants or cultivars which produce ever more stunning flowers. The trouble is that many of them are of little or no use to honey-bees or bumblebees. Double blooms and many cultivars contain neither pollen nor nectar. Their sole purpose seems to be for us, for that glance across a splash of colour whilst we sip a cool summer drink.
Outside our cities and gardens the situation is not much better; there has been a staggering decline in flower-rich hay meadows, wild spaces and wildflower leys. About 97% of our original flower-rich habitats have been lost in the past 60 years. And with these, fast disappearing from our landscapes, are flowering plants which have evolved over millennia alongside bees and in perfect symbiosis with them. These provide bees with the absolute ideal in terms of pollen, nectar and propolis, with different species flowering in succession throughout the year.
Add to this, bees have their fair share of parasites and diseases; and for a final blow, a new generation of insecticides originally developed in the 1990’s to protect fruit trees from aphid attack are, ironically, apparently harming bees. There is science-based evidence coming out of France which proves that many pesticides, in sub-lethal doses, are harmful to bees.

Bees urgently need our help!
Luckily there is much we can do: Think of bees when you garden. This is so easy because many of bees’ favourite plants are also culinary or medicinal herbs, wildflowers or fruits of every kind. Most of them are unadulterated species plants. These don’t just look good, they do us and the bees good too. We can provide many of these kinds of herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees. The bees’ favourites are our priority
Checklist for Plants for Bees
There are a just a few keys points to remember when choosing plants for bees:
• Approved by bees - Anecdotal evidence has been collected from all over the world, from many people, beekeepers, entomologists, wildlife enthusiasts and gardeners who have observed bees' foraging preferences. We are also planning scientific field studies for 2012 to confirm which garden plants do prove the most popular with our bees.
• 100% safe for bees - Plants that are grown without the use of pesticides (especially neonicotinoids such as 'Clothianidin', 'Imidacloprid', 'Thiacloprid' or 'Acetamiprid') or other chemicals that may harm bees. Organic (or Biodynamic) plants are 100% safe for bees.
• Species plants - You can't go wrong with natural, 'species' plants that have evolved with bees over millennia. Many artificially bred cultivers or clones, are sterile and often do not produce nectar (for example, the nectaries having been bred into extra petals). Though most fruit cultivars are fine.
• Produces plenty of nectar or pollen - Some of the bees' favourite plants produce greater quantities of pollen or nectar than others - that is the kind of information we will try to include in our plant descriptions - especially after the scientific studies being carried out in our bee sancturay have concluded in 2012.
• Flowers throughout the times of greatest need - There are certain times when pollen or nectar are needed: Early spring is a time of great need for pollen (which triggers egg-laying by the queen); All season from early spring to late Autumn nectar is needed, though there is a 'crisis period' from the end of June until September (in the South of the UK) when adult bees' numbers are at a peak and their need for nectar is vital. This summer period is one we should concentrate on providing copious amounts of nectar in our gardens."
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column. With this proposed removal of all plants required for butterflies etc to live in and pro-create; at least once a year by the autumn or spring clearing up, the wildlife in public parks is destroyed as is done in every managed park in the world. Please leave something for the wildlife to live in without disturbance; rather than destroy everything so children can ride their bicycles anywhere they want when the park is open during the day and they are not at school.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- "Of the original 186 flowering species (including sub-species), the 5 colour forms and the 8 unconfirmed species, (193 flowering species in total) only 55 have persisted throughout the 35 years of flailing since 1972. Of these 55 species:- 3 species are unchanged. 11 species have disastrously increased. 41 species are seriously reduced in number, most by over 90%. Of these, 18 are now increasing under the somewhat lighter flailing regime. 13 are still decreasing, and 35 have only a few specimens (from 1-12 plants) left. Of the rest of the original species:- 37 species and 3 colour forms have disappeared, then reappeared after varying lengths of time. Of these, 20 have fewer than 6 plants, most of them only 1 or 2, and are liable to disappear again. Only 6 of the recovered species look capable of surviving in the longer term. 23 species have reappeared, then disappeared again due to being flailed before they could set seed or to being overcome by rank weeds. Only 3 species have reappeared for a second time, and one of these has since disappeared for the third time. 68 species and 2 colour forms disappeared and have never reappeared to date (2008). Of the 83 flowering species (excluding 11 rampant species) and 3 colour forms now present in the survey mile, around 50 are unlikely to survive there in the long term, certainly not in viable numbers, if flailing continues. Unless the degradation of habitat, high fertility and spread of ivy and other rampant weeds can be reversed, it appears highly unlikely that more than a dozen or so of the lost floral species can ever safely return or be re-introduced. The only birds sighted more than once so far this year along the mile have been magpie, rook, crow and buzzard, and a swallow (probably the same one each time) hunting between the hedges now and then at the sheltered eastern end of the mile. One wren heard June 21st, one blackbird seen June 27th (these also at the eastern end) and one greenfinch today July 31st. On this hot sunny high-summer day counted only 7 hedge brown butterflies (6 of them males), one red admiral and one large white. Half a dozen small bumblebees, two carder bees, half a dozen hoverflies of two common Eristalis species, one flesh fly, one scorpion fly and one dragonfly, Cordulegaster boltonii, not hunting, zooming straight down the road and disappearing into the distance. Only 8 butterfly species so far this year, and only one specimen each of five of them (red admiral, speckled wood, large white, ringlet and large skipper, the latter seen only once since 1976). Only small white, hedge brown and speckled wood have managed to appear every year since the flail arrived. For some years I have been noticing very small specimens particularly of hedge brown and speckled wood. This year nearly all the hedge browns seen in the mile ('all' being a dozen or so in total) are of this stunted size, some of the males appearing really tiny. I am wondering if this might be a response to general environmental stress, or due to inbreeding as flail-reduced numbers are so low. The hedge brown does not fly far from its hatching place so mating opportunity is now extremely limited. With the few species of insects now seen in the hedges there seems to be a high proportion of males to females, at least five to one. So far this year only a single moth has come to the house lights. It was a Drinker, and it killed itself against the bulb before it could be saved. September 21st. Most of the survey mile closely flailed today along both sides of the road.
End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure. Times and attitudes have changed since the days when the flail first appeared on the scene. The plight of our once-so-diverse wildlife is officially recognised as a priority; agricultural grants may embrace conservation measures, and perhaps economic strictures will tend more to a live-and-let-live policy in future with less of the expensive, pointless and desecrating "tidying-up". We now have an enthusiastic generation keen to help nature recover its diversity, but often unsure as to how this is best achieved. [Please see CHL "Restoring Biodiversity in Cornish Hedges"] 21st September 2007. There is still widespread ignorance of the effects of such destructive machinery as the flail-mower and other rotary trimmers and strimmers. Few people but the elderly now remember or understand the life that ought to be abundant in the everyday hedges, verges, field margins and waste places. The simple remedy of returning to the clean-cutting finger-bar scythe used in late winter, trimming alternate sides of the hedge in different years, not trimming green herbaceous growth and leaving the cut material (mainly dead stems and twigs) on or near the hedge, is largely unrealised. This wildlife-friendly type of trimmer is still available from some suppliers. Cornwall County Council has changed from being (in this instance) the chief offender to employing said-to-be environmentally-aware officers concerned with reconciling conservation and development. In recent years the council has issued instructional leaflets about hedges and their wildlife, including one entitled Cornish Roadside Hedge Management (since altered, perhaps not entirely for the better). This leaflet largely embodied the principles that our petition of 1985 asked for. Ironically, it is no longer the council's employees who are carrying out the work. Although this advice is now available, it does not necessarily reach the farmers and contractors out on the job. The flails are still in destructive action at any time from June onwards, though on the whole the work does seem to be being done later rather than sooner. Some farmers are now correctly leaving it until January and early February, a good time to allot to road work while other farm jobs may have to wait for drier weather. Most farmers, despite the bad publicity they tend to suffer, truly wish to do the best they can for their wildlife. Sadly for all, the flail is still the universally-available tool. Those ignorant of the flail's real effects may imagine that 'sensitive' use of it is all right, as some common plant and insect species return temporarily and a few others increase when the work is switched to the less damaging time of year and done lightly. In the longer term, this is delusive; even in winter an unacceptable number of individuals are killed at every flailing and the habitat still inexorably degrades. No matter how or when or how seldom the flail is used, species continue to die out. Until naturalists and environmentalists understand the catastrophic and cumulative effects of the flail they will continue to say they don't know why, despite all well-intentioned efforts, the numbers and diversity of wild flowers, songbirds, bats, butterflies, moths and bumblebees are still falling. Nature lovers have to stop thinking mainly in terms of schemes to benefit a handful of charismatic species at special sites, and start looking at what the flail and other rotary mowers have done to thousands upon thousands of acres of the British countryside and billions upon billions of its most essential, ordinary inhabitants. It has struck at the major heart of the core existence of our native species, slaughtering them wholesale in that very sanctuary of the hedges and verges. These species had already mostly gone from the rest of the local area; the hedges where they had all taken refuge were their last resort. The remnants of species and their precarious survivors are still being wiped out, smashed to death every time the flail is used. It is the utterly wrong tool for the job and it has to be scrapped. A brand-new flail-mower operating in February 2008. Right time of year for trimming, wrong kind of trimmer. As long as it is manufactured and turned out into the roads and fields the flail will decimate wild flowers, massacre the small creatures remaining in the hedges and verges, destroy their habitat and ruin the ancient structure of Cornwall's hedges. Since the last yellowhammer flew across the road in 1980, I have never seen another while walking the survey mile. Since the last grasshopper in July 1981, I have never seen or heard another in these hedges. Since all the other species this diary recorded absent disappeared, they have not been seen again except in the few instances stated in the text. Most of the remaining species are declining. Fewer than half of them are likely to survive in the longer term if present trends continue. The long-vanished flowering species are likely never to return, as repeated flailing before seeding has exhausted their dormant seed stocks. The survey mile is typically representative of a majority of Cornish roadside hedges. The photographs - in the pdf in their website - illustrating many of the flowering species lost were not taken in the survey hedge,for the obvious reason that they were no longer there. Most were taken in the house's wild garden adjoining, while those that did not grow there were obtained only with extreme difficulty, by searching all over West Penwith in a roughly thirty-mile radius for un-flailed pockets of survival. Along the roadside hedges, in this whole distance I found just one or two plants or patches of only a few of the species sought - common toadflax, field scabious, tufted vetch, scentless mayweed, red clover, self-heal - species that before the flail were so commonly seen along the whole length of hundreds of hedges in West Cornwall, now growing only where for some unusual reason of situation the flail had missed. Some of the photographs of invertebrate species killed out by the flail in the survey mile were taken in the garden adjoining, where, despite nurturing since pre-flail days, the majority have now disappeared due to over-predation. In the survey mile this year, for the first time since 1992, the hedges remained un-flailed throughout the summer, giving a few common invertebrates the chance to reappear. No adult moth is illustrated because only half a dozen individuals were seen during the whole summer season of 2007, unfortunately at moments when the camera was not in my hand or they were fluttering out of reach. The drinker caterpillar alone was found posing beautifully and goes down to posterity as the only visible surviving moth larva noted in the survey mile this year, illustrating the millions of his kind killed by the flail. Along this one typical mile of Cornish lane alone my records show that the flail has been the outright death or caused the persisting non-appearance of
- 90 flowering herbaceous species,
- 5 shrub species,
- 20 grass species,
- 60 moss species,
- 40 bird species,
- 23 butterfly species,
- 250 larger moth species,
- many scores of other invertebrate species, and untold thousands of individuals.
- It has condemned the hedge itself to a long-term, silent, living death, wrecked its antique stone construction and destroyed its great beauty. Along the whole of the estimated 30,000 miles of Cornish hedges the deaths of individual plants and creatures from flail-battering and the loss of their generations represent truly astronomical figures. The degradation of habitat resulting from flailing prevents revival in most species even where a few individuals manage to escape the physical impact of the flails. Although the effect in Cornwall with its solid hedge-banks and their more complex ecology may be worse than with the English hedgerow, the flail-induced wildlife crisis is nation-wide - and still almost universally unrecognised or unacknowledged.
- There is no hope of recovery for our countryside wildlife until the flail type of machine is consigned to the black museum of history. To achieve this it will probably have to be banned by law.
- The finger-bar scythe has to be reinstated and any trimming (except where needed for road-junction or access visibility) must be carried out in winter, the later the better between November 1st and February 28th. Trimming must take away the woody scrub growth on the sides of the hedge, leaving the herbaceous growth on the sides and the bushes on the top untouched. Only then can the flail-ruined hedges and verges begin to see a real return to some kind of healthy and abundant life."
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:- "This check-list is a simple guide to the herbaceous plants typically indicating different habitat types found in the Cornish hedge. The short lists are of typical plants, not complete species lists for the habitat. Many of the plants in the Typical Hedge list also appear in the other types of hedge. Areas of intermediate population where location or physical conditions begin to change and habitats overlap are not included. Hedge Type:-
- Typical Cornish Hedge (woodland-edge/ heathland mixture)
- Coastal Hedge
- Moorland/ Heathland Hedges
- Woodland Hedge
- Wet Hedge (marsh or ditch)
- Stone Hedge (Earth capping but with stone core)
- Typical garden escapes in Cornish Hedges
- Typical species rampant in flail-damaged hedges
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
- Advice for Working on Roadside Hedges
- Building Hedges in Cornwall
- Building Turf Hedges
- Building and Repairing Cornish Stone Stiles
- Butterflies, Moths and Other Insects in Cornish Hedges
- Check-list for Inspecting New or Restored Hedges in Cornwall
- Check-list of Types of Cornish Hedge Flora
- Code of Good Practice for Cornish Hedges
- Comments on the © Defra Hedgerow Survey Handbook (1st Edition)
- Comments on the © Defra Hedgerow Survey Handbook (2nd Edition)
- Cornish Hedges in Gardens
- Cornish Hedges on Development and Housing Sites
- Gates and Gateways in Cornish hedges
- Geology and Hedges in Cornwall
- Glossary of some Cornish Words used in the Countryside
- Hedges in the Cornish Landscape
- How to Look After a Cornish Hedge
- How Old is That Cornish Hedge?
- Literature Sources
- Mediaeval Hedges in Cornwall (450AD - 1550)
- Modern Hedges in Cornwall (1840 - present day)
- Mosses, Lichens, Fungi and Ferns in Cornish Hedges
- Pipe-laying and Other Cross-country Works Involving Hedges
- Post-Mediaeval Hedges in Cornwall (1550 - 1840)
- Prehistoric Hedges in Cornwall (5,000BC - 450AD)
- Repairing Cornish Hedges and Stone Hedges
- Repairing Turf Hedges
- Risk Assessment Guidance for working on Cornish Hedges
- Roadside Hedges and Verges in Cornwall
- The Curse of Rabbits in Cornish Hedges
- The Life and Death of a Flailed Cornish Hedge
- Trees on Hedges in Cornwall
- Unusual Old Features in Cornish Hedges
- Who Owns that Cornish Hedge?
- Wildlife and the Cornish Hedge
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges."
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